Rolf & Daughters: Nashville, Tennessee

It was a sultry, summer night in Nashville, just about dusk, the time when the air becomes full of evening electricity.  As we pulled up to Rolf and Daughters, an oasis of coolness in a warehouse section of Germantown, it was evident from the string lights, the graffitied walls and the vibe coming from the outdoor patio that tonight was going to be good, memorable even.  

Arriving a little early for our reservation, we sat at the bar for a cocktail while taking in the scene.  Immediately it was clear that the bartender was a pro; she bantered with her colleagues, mixed craft cocktails and shared her depth of knowledge about food and drink all with easy comfort.  She guided us, based on our likes, to a Montaña Verde which included Espolon Blanco tequila, Genepy des Alpes, grapefruit, cilantro, jalapeno and lime.  The drink, not only beautiful, was tangy and sweet with a perfect kick from the pepper.  The Wingman was a blend of Four Roses single barrel bourbon, Dolin Dry, Peychaud’s bitters and Orange Oils; it was similar to a Manhattan with a bright citrus finish.

We were enjoying the action and repartee amongst the staff at the bar so much, that when our table came up, we decided to forgo the seating and remained bar-side for dinner.  The seasonal menu had changed since we looked online a few days prior, and being currently obsessed with drippy, succulent local peaches, we had to try the pig head with Georgia peach, spring onions, and mostarda.  The bartender jokingly, but with warning, described the pig head as anything but lean.  It was rich and chewy, full of umami, warmly coating the tongue and reminiscent of tendon in a Vietnamese pho.  The deepness was balanced beautifully by the mostarda (candied fruit in a mustard syrup), which included fresh, sweet peaches, local cherry tomatoes and bitter dandelion greens.  

A perennial favorite, we could not resist the chicken liver pate.  Creamy and salty, it was smothered with a thin layer of green tomato marmalade and the kicker – it was sprinkled with cacao.  In a million years, I would not have paired cacao and chicken liver and, now that I have experienced it, nothing else seems right.  Smothered on chewy, crunchy homemade bread, the liver was silky perfection.  We fought over licking the ramekin clean.  

Our last small plate was a local carrot salad, which included shaved and roasted carrots, still retaining a perfect crunch, scattered with a duck ham and drizzled with a local buttermilk dressing.  The duck had a cured, salty flavor but remained tender.  Pulling it all together was the buttermilk; imagine the lightest and purest ranch dressing adding a gentle tanginess to the plate.

Like the way a margherita can delineate a pizza place, roasted chicken can define a great restaurant.  Done well, it is no longer a bland protein, but is instead elevated to a deeply satisfying and exquisite meal.  As a main course, the pastured chicken, juicy and tender, was served with a preserved lemon and garlic confit, feeling fresh and summery, while also hinting at the comfort of the coming autumn season. It would seem inappropriate not to ask for a spoon to finish off the sauce.  

Our second main course was by far the most unusual pasta I have ever experienced and perhaps, I might go so far as to call it life changing.  A beautiful, shiny, black squid ink trofie, a twisted pasta that hails from the Liguria region of Italy, was served al dente and tossed with nduja, clams, scallions, and crunchy toasted breadcrumbs.  The njuda, a spreadable sausage, gave the dish a spicy salinity and juxtaposed the sweet clams.    

Beyond satiated, we are always suckers for a good panna cotta, and when we saw this one described as peaches and cream, we could not resist dessert.  Just hinting at sweet, the custard was silky, and as my mom likes to say when trying to justify dessert, "it slid down easily".  

A music gig brought us to Nashville, but our passion for the city lies in the great restaurants like Rolf and Daughters, hidden in funky and diverse little neighborhoods. While we were enjoying this feast and the camaraderie of other patrons at the bar, the room filled up with friends, the lights dimmed, drinks flowed and that mid-summer weekend hum I so often feel in Nashville, hovered over everyone, wrapping all in a sigh of joy and hinting of excitement.  

Charleston, SC: Two Boroughs Larder

It took mere minutes to fall in love with the city of Charleston, South Carolina. The colonial houses, stone streets, scenic bay, bird-filled marshes all tugged at my heart strings, as they were reminiscent of my childhood on the New England coast. Coupled with the nostalgia were all things southern that make me incredibly happy: palm trees, moss draped gardens, southern hospitality, boutiques filled with colorful, classy attire, soulful southern chefs, and a dewy humidity that is strangely addictive.


In typical fashion, our vacation rituals in this charming city quickly evolved into long walks, prohibition era cocktails and scintillatingly good food. After a day spent sleuthing and photographing the city, it was exciting to dress up and start the night in the cool vibe of The Gin Joint, where the motto was, "Drink Proper. Speak Easy." Sultry booths, funky lighting and cabinets made of urban chain link, set the tone for classic Americana libations.

The smoked maple old fashioned, made with bonded rye whiskey and black walnut bitters, served with one crystal clear sphere of ice, was sexy looking, smooth, and smoky on the pallet. The hint of black walnut bitters added what reminded me of a pecan pie undertone and a spicy bouquet on the nose. While the old fashioned oozed of 1950's seduction and made you want to settle deeper into the booth, the Jalisco Pharmacy was fresh and exciting, almost encouraging you to call all of your friends for a deck party. Tequila mixed with lemon, ginger, honey and mezcal, created a nuanced and refreshing drink, that will no doubt become a summer classic.

The Gin Joint

Since I mentioned rituals, I will confess that we started a second night at The Gin Joint, that time trying the Tequila old fashioned and a bartender's choice. The old fashioned was made with smoky anejo tequila, agave nectar, and grapefruit bitters, which was a delightfully light version of the more traditional whiskey recipe. The bartender's choice included rye whiskey, averno amero (a spirit based herbal digestive), and angostura bitters. It was deep and spicy, served elegantly straight-up in an old fashioned champagne glass.

Pickled Shrimp

Fortunately the bartender poured generously and therefore after one drink, we pried ourselves out of the place where we now considered ourselves vacation regulars, and took to the streets for a walk across town to our new favorite dinner spot, Two Boroughs Larder. Located on the outskirts of The College of Charleston, tucked into a little nondescript side street, the restaurant has a comfortableness about it that makes you feel like you could eat there every night, and yet it still remains a treat. Bare-bulb chandeliers, an open kitchen, pantry shelving, and a farm-to-table, daily-changing menu, all lend a European, neighborhood air that is completely hip, while not trying hard at all.

Ravenous after a long walk, we wasted no time ordering the pickled shrimp salad as a starter. Served in an unassuming jelly jar, it was one of the most flavorful, fresh dishes I have ever consumed; cold, lightly pickled shrimp were layered generously with, chick peas, cippolini onions, fennel, and colorful baby sorrel sprouts all smothered in a tangy dressing making for a crunchy forkful and a fight for the last bite.

Lamb Belly

Brussels Sprouts

Bordeaux was served in a juice glass and arrived as a perfect accompaniment to the cumin scented lamb belly. Juicy chocolate cherry tomatoes, pine nuts and salty roasted cerignola olives, balanced the rich and tender lamb. Next arrived the crispy veal sweetbreads, glazed with a caper, shallot and chili sauce and tossed with roasted cauliflower, they possessed the perfect chewy, satisfying texture. The side of chili and lime Brussels sprouts were roasted to caramelized perfection. Equally satisfying was the dish of sweet roasted beets, dusted lightly with grated ricotta salata cheese.

For dessert we could not resist the rice pudding. Served warm, topped with crunchy oats, it was loose, barely sweet, a little al dente and seemed completely made to order just for us.

Daily Salad

So enthralled were we with this local haunt, that the next night, when we were craving a more casual dinner, we found ourselves drawn back to Two Boroughs, despite the seemingly infinite number of options in this food rich city. This time we started with the daily salad, consisting of chilled, crisp yellow wax beans, Italian flat beans, parsley, paper thin slices of baby radish and creamy buffalo mozzarella all tossed in a champagne vinaigrette with agrumato olive oil. Made with quality ingredients, this dish proves that simple is often better.

Butcher's Sandwich

Crispy New Potatoes

The butcher's sandwich was the perfect cross between an Italian sub and a Vietnamese bahn mi, as it included salami toscana, prosciutto, pecorino cheese and nduja, a homemade spreadable salami, with pickled carrots, radish and herbs, all on a baguette. The side of crispy new potatoes with shredded brisket and shallot confit, were outlandishly divine and a salacious treat next to the healthier chili braised kale with white anchovies.

Bowl-O-Noodle

Finally, the dish that without question won the "best of the vacation week," and at a bargain price, was the bowl-o-noodle. Shredded, crispy Keegan Filion pork, a soft boiled farm egg, spicy and crunchy kimchi, sesame greens, and pickled wild mushrooms, nestled on noodles in a comforting pork broth. The egg, when split open, infused the broth with yolk making a thick, rich texture that coated the tongue.  Each bite was different from the last, the flavors layering and the textures dancing.

While we should have ended on that note of nirvana, I am glad we pushed through to experience the chocolate budino. A rich chocolate cold pot de creme type base was covered in chopped pistachios, sea salt and smothered in a layer of olive oil. The rather plain look of the dish belied the brilliant flavor and texture; sweet and salt played off one another while the pistachios crunched and the olive oil coated everything on the palette giving it a feeling of elegance. This dish is everything you love about chocolate covered pretzels, but dressed up in a ball gown. Mercy!

There was not near enough time to explore all that Charleston has to offer. While I eagerly look forward to future trips to the city and new rituals, I will work on perfecting my version of the Jalisco Pharmacy back at home this summer.