tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23694441297273384922024-03-13T14:36:48.923-05:00eatsouthernA southern culinary adventure, exploring dives and fine dining restaurants, while enjoying a craft cocktail or two along the way. Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.comBlogger38125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-10057240938901181712016-10-12T19:15:00.000-05:002017-10-01T14:46:58.148-05:00It's Aperitivi Time, Y'all!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PTq4bk_1tqc/V_7I_Un3xiI/AAAAAAAAEBI/mo9qYfkQ4sQ618fXQDk3mYL12A0B8CS_ACLcB/s1600/duomo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PTq4bk_1tqc/V_7I_Un3xiI/AAAAAAAAEBI/mo9qYfkQ4sQ618fXQDk3mYL12A0B8CS_ACLcB/s640/duomo.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Visiting the Langhe region of Italy is incredibly good for the soul. My second visit there reminded that life, friends, beauty, art, nature and of course, food and wine, are central to happiness. La dolce vita may seem cliché until you visit this area and realize, they are living it! Take for instance the concept of aperitivi. In America, the closest equivalent is what we call “Happy Hour,” a two for one beer special. These are discount deals aimed to draw customers. In Piemonte, Italy it is different; aperitivi is a way of life. It is what you do on your way home from work. From approximately six to eight in the evening, friends meet friends to celebrate and enjoy life. Restaurants and cafes serve cocktails. Popular are light libations such as the Aperol Spritz composed of Aperol, sparkling wine and soda. Another classic selection is the Negroni, which includes gin, Campari and vermouth. Just as you are settling into your aperitif, you server arrives with a complimentary plate of sumptuous meats, cheeses, sandwiches and of course potato chips. Yes, you heard me correctly, potato chips.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZwdCCNm5FkA/V_7LQGYtldI/AAAAAAAAEBc/STdATaZ5QqMMu2DHCkNMvJ0bZ9Xq_hQQwCEw/s1600/tomatoes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZwdCCNm5FkA/V_7LQGYtldI/AAAAAAAAEBc/STdATaZ5QqMMu2DHCkNMvJ0bZ9Xq_hQQwCEw/s640/tomatoes.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-duw0IXMDXBw/V_7LGwqz5rI/AAAAAAAAEBM/uXkfP-vaxv0gPJjknJ9Z7D935nAf57XDQCLcB/s1600/orta.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-duw0IXMDXBw/V_7LGwqz5rI/AAAAAAAAEBM/uXkfP-vaxv0gPJjknJ9Z7D935nAf57XDQCLcB/s400/orta.jpg" width="300" /></a>Aperitivi is inexpensive. Our typical aperitivi bills across the Langhe were roughly $10 - $20 euro, total for two people. I am going to break this down a bit. Cocktails during aperitivi come with amazing free food, in Italy! This does sound like nirvana and it is, but there is a refinement expected for such luxuries. Italians typically do not overindulge. Much like their café (coffee), where they order one small shot of espresso, drink and leave, aperitivi is not an all-night affair. Typically, you meet your friends for one drink, whoop it up, and then go home to your life. You rarely see a mobile phone; instead you see friends engaging, laughing and enjoying each other. Even though there is a plate of exquisite food in front of you, you thoroughly enjoy a few nibbles and leave the remainder because you will have dinner shortly.<br />
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Designed to be light, cocktails like the Aperol spritz, in all of their orange beauty, are wonderful sippers. Whether you are headed home to your family or off to a dinner out on the town, aperitivi is designed to light the way.<br />
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I would like to write more, but it is 5:50 pm….La dolce vita my friends!<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-82545206075172106182015-10-04T12:19:00.001-05:002015-10-11T18:06:55.355-05:00Antica Corona Reale: Piemonte, Italia<div class="normal">
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">A</span>dmittedly, there is very little that is overtly southern about
this post.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is more about the
"eat", and yet, as I dined my way across Piemonte, Italy, I could not
help but draw comparisons to southern cuisine and hospitality.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After all, the Langhe region of Piemonte is
home of the Slow Food movement.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Best
known for their truffles and many of the world's most renowned wines, such as
Barolo, Barbera and Barberesco, life seems to revolve around culinary
pleasures.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Stories are told, friendships
are made, farm to table is a given, meals last for hours and top notch hospitality
are requisite;<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>all in all, not so
different from the American South.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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Possessing a similar terrain as Tuscany, with the rolling, vineyard covered hills, Piemonte is equally beautiful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Every hillside seems to hold a castle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Narrow, hairpin winding roads connect the
little villages, forcing you to drive slowly to take in the beauty.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fog collects in the valleys, giving the
terrain a mystical quality.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The towns
remain authentic and the people are real; Old men still gather in the mornings
in the town centers over espresso, old women lug their groceries up steep stone
streets, laundry hangs without shame from every balcony, Fiats are the
largest cars around, wine is served with lunch, and dinner begins after
8pm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The little tourism that is here has
certainly not turned this region into a caricature of itself. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SEHDJXIkKsQ/VhFak7Vlq6I/AAAAAAAACfY/fnJPzKPPkbQ/s1600/SubstandardFullSizeRender.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SEHDJXIkKsQ/VhFak7Vlq6I/AAAAAAAACfY/fnJPzKPPkbQ/s320/SubstandardFullSizeRender.jpg" width="320"></a>It is impossible to make a dining miscalculation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Each little osteria, tucked away on an
unassuming side street, was better than the last.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Early on, we gorged on the local specialty,
carne crudo, which is essentially a version of steak tartare made with high
quality, local Piedmonte beef or veal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
was reminded of my childhood, when my mom would mix up the ground beef for
hamburgers with spices and worcestershire sauce, and then call me into the
kitchen to taste the raw meat. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sharing
in that cold, tangy, iron flavor was as exciting as licking the beaters of cake
batter. <o:p></o:p></div>
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One of our more memorable meals was a lunch at <a href="http://www.anticacoronareale.com/cervere/" target="_blank">Antica Corona Reale</a> in Cervere, just outside of Bra, the capital of the Slow Food
movement.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We originally had reservations
for dinner, but they called a few days in advance to say the electricity for
the whole village was going to be shut off that night for maintenance, and so
if we would agree to lunch, they would treat us to a bottle of wine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cervere is a very unassuming little town, not
a hillside beauty, but a passthrough on your way out of Bra.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We found the restaurant, after some hunting,
directly on the main drag in unremarkable brick building.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The door was locked upon our arrival, a
tradition we were still unaccustomed to, but within moments, it opened to a
group of warm and professional staff who invited us into their
"home".<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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We were led through the building to an internal
courtyard that was unexpectedly heavenly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>A grape arbor covered the courtyard, dappling the late summer sun.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Soothing sounds gurgled from a fountain in
the middle of the courtyard, and was surrounded by a dozen, linen draped
tables, of which four were occupied.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
sank into our chairs and burst into laughter at the joy this special place
elicited.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As if on cue, the head server
arrived to pour a glass of sparkling wine to welcome us to the restaurant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And so the slow food began.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Before we even selected the tasting menu, our server
presented a plate of small bites, including one perfect cube of chicken, a
hazelnut crusted croquette, and a savory, luscious profiterole.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Following that warm welcome, the chef sent over another treat - an
exquisite bite of ham gelatin with capers that was as visually stunning as it
was delicious.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was a cool cube of
perfection to stimulate our palate for what was to come next.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="normal"><br></div>
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First up was the Ligurian amberjack carpaccio and tartare with
San Remo shrimp served with fennel, juniper and bergamot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The amberjack fish, both thinly sliced and
chopped, was light and mild, tasting refreshingly of the sea.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were two kinds of shrimp, both served
raw, one tasting similar to gulf shrimp, the second tasting incredibly sweet
and chewy, more like lobster or a langoustine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Heads on, the juices flavored the meat deliciously.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Drizzled at the table with olive oil, the
crisp raw fennel was a fresh counterpoint to the meaty shrimp.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Next was a colorful gazpacho, served with a soft boiled egg,
roasted crispy vegetables and an eggplant puree.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The egg yolk blended wonderfully into the
cool tomato gazpacho and leant a richness to the soup. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Our pasta course was a dish of gray rabbit ravioli, with
shallots, foie gras and black truffle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>These perfectly formed little dumplings were earthy, rich and
satisfying. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Throughout the meal, our servers, the maitre d', the head
server, the chef d'cuisine and even the chef's father and former head chef,
stopped by to engage us in conversation and confirm our every need was
anticipated.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My heart melted for the
older chef, whose sparkling blue eyes set off his brilliant white hair.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He didn't speak English and our Italian is
rough, but with a warm embrace, he welcomed us and commented on our shared
azzuro eyes, a rarity in these parts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O4MSGMNejmo/VhFcGSFfEQI/AAAAAAAACfk/9mtdCG5V8B0/s1600/SubstandardFullSizeRender%255B1%255D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O4MSGMNejmo/VhFcGSFfEQI/AAAAAAAACfk/9mtdCG5V8B0/s320/SubstandardFullSizeRender%255B1%255D.jpg" width="320"></a>After the first pasta course, we were surprised by a second, a
gift from the chef, who wanted to make sure we had a chance to try the
gorgonzola cheese ravioli with Madernassa pears and an almond butter cream
sauce.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The visual simplicity of the
plate belied the punch of flavors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This
dish stands out among all others on our trip as my favorite.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The blue cheese combined with the sweet sauce
were unlike any pasta combination I have had or could have imagined.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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Our hearty main course was local Piemonte veal, breaded and
served over an egg yolk sauce.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The veal
was served rare, tender and fresh, accented by freshly cracked sea salt and a
saute of fresh pumpkin from their kitchen garden.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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No Italian meal would be complete without sweets, and in this
case, a whole plate of desserts ranging from torrone (nougat) to panna cotta
and hazelnut ice cream.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We ordered espresso to go with our dessert and as is typical in Piemonte, it came with a second
plate of sweets, which we begged them to pack for us to go (they suggested we eat that one and they would pack a new one to go).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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It turns out this is the 200th anniversary of Antica Corona
Reale, a legacy of fine dining beyond any American's comprehension. Originally
a farmhouse, surrounded by acres of land, they have been plating stunning food,
long before farm to table was a thing. Brilliant chefs passed down the legacy
to their progeny, who carried on the tradition, with a little of their own
flare.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The restaurant was awarded their
second Michelin star in 2009.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Easily,
this was one of the best meals of my life, however mostly for reasons difficult
to articulate. There is something about that courtyard that allowed time to
stand still.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was lush, warm and
beautiful, with white grapes hanging overhead in bunches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The service was impeccable, but not in the
least bit stuffy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I adored our
servers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The food was adventurous and
yet ancient.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And of course, a steady
flow of local sparkling wine throughout the meal, only added to the sensuality
of the experience. <o:p></o:p></div>
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again by the strong sense of hospitality and warmth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cafes provide dishes and dishes of small
bites of food, upon which you may graze while you wait for your espresso.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Every evening espresso, following dinner, was
accompanied by a complimentary plate of sweets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Cocktail hour or Aperitivi in Milano came with endless small plates of
cheese and meats or buffets of fresh Italian dishes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Baristas, who warmed up to us, pressed us with
small wrapped candies, as a sign of affection.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Time is slow and little things, like a nice espresso with friends,
matter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Colleagues meet after work for
drinks, to socialize, and to laugh loudly in exuberance, scarcely a mobile
phone in sight.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Friends hold hands and
everyone kisses cheeks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Food expresses
love in Piemonte and there is an abundance of love to go around.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>La dolce vita!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-15359573000262035842015-06-10T20:35:00.004-05:002015-10-11T17:44:02.336-05:00Porcellino's Butcher: Memphis, Tennessee<div class="normal">
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"></span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VZYBzF7rkG8/VXjdigdJuEI/AAAAAAAACX4/VH0yZmj8-RM/s1600/_IGP9680-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VZYBzF7rkG8/VXjdigdJuEI/AAAAAAAACX4/VH0yZmj8-RM/s640/_IGP9680-5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">I </span>grew up on meat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
were the type of family who lived off of a roast for days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hams lasted a good week.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our meals were composed around a carnivore's centerpiece.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Rice and potatoes were a
given and vegetables were of the frozen variety.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My mom is a fabulous cook, her true skill
somewhat hampered by the thrifty nature of one raised in an extremely
efficient, depression era home.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lD5--668hgg/VXjdh8X5PcI/AAAAAAAACXs/S6HgbKSl5HY/s1600/_IGP9672-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lD5--668hgg/VXjdh8X5PcI/AAAAAAAACXs/S6HgbKSl5HY/s400/_IGP9672-5.jpg" width="265" /></a>I hated vegetables growing up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The multi-colored medley cooked in a microwave plastic container, with a
tab of margarine, made me gag.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
couldn't do it. The iceberg lettuce salads, weren't bad, and I lived for those
nights, when as a treat, we added a little blue cheese.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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But, I loved my mother's amazing meats.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She was passionate about a rare cut, seared
quickly on the outside and cool on the inside.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>When making burgers, we always tested the raw blend to make sure it was
seasoned perfectly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That uncooked, iron
flavor is one of my favorite early culinary memories.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Having lived in Turkey for two years, my mom
perfected the art of cooking lamb; I loved chewing her crispy seared chops
right from the bone almost as much as dining on her seasoned, butterflied, grilled leg of
lamb.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I have gone back and forth in my life, celebrating the joy of
meat and, for periods of time, abstaining or reducing my intake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have come to love vegetables.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My weekly CSA deliver from <a href="http://www.yoknabottoms.com/" target="_blank">Yokna Bottoms Farm </a>brings me mystery and
exquisite joy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I often choose my restaurant
meals based on the vegetable sides, but at the end of the day, there is nothing
more satisfying to me than a juicy rare cut of meat. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y1K2gpbaXhk/VXjdi1F-FoI/AAAAAAAACX8/wWGwmlfdAbs/s1600/_IGP9681-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y1K2gpbaXhk/VXjdi1F-FoI/AAAAAAAACX8/wWGwmlfdAbs/s400/_IGP9681-5.jpg" width="265" /></a><br />
For that reason, I have been in deep anticipation over the
opening of <a href="http://www.porcellinoscraftbutcher.com/" target="_blank">Porcellino's</a> Craft Butcher in Memphis.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
third restaurant in the Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman empire, Porcellino's, is a butcher shop cum bistro/bar led by head butcher, Aaron Winters. Small french style marble
tables sit atop a tiled floor, surrounded by refrigerators of meats, ice
creams, and pastas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At one end of the
restaurant is a cozy bar, while the opposite hosts the butcher case.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In between is a window into the kitchen
overlooking a prep table for fresh pasta and pastry making.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
<o:p></o:p></div>
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While you may buy any number of high-quality looking cuts from
stuffed pork loin to lamb, rib-eyes to hearts and pig ears, we were sadly
without a cooler and therefore were there to try out their lunch menu.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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Immediately, I knew we had a problem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Every sandwich was calling to me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I did not have a decisive bone in my
body.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We managed to narrow it down to
the "Goomba", an Italian cold-cut sandwich served on soft white
bread.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>More refined than the Italian sub
I grew up loving in Boston, it easily could have been homemade, right from
Mark's family kitchen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The bread was
spread with deeply flavorful olive salad and topped with cool shredded lettuce
and just the right amount of sopressata, porchetta, and "gabagool". Unlike the subs of my youth, the bread and meats were not competing,
but complementing each other.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eoYvOaxQkW0/VXjfm2P0llI/AAAAAAAACYg/1PHC-bXWOX8/s1600/IMG_3740.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eoYvOaxQkW0/VXjfm2P0llI/AAAAAAAACYg/1PHC-bXWOX8/s400/IMG_3740.jpg" width="300" /></a>The very attentive waiter helped us choose our second sandwich,
suggesting a hot lamb and pork sausage on a light hoagie.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The sausage was everything he promised.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Rich and juicy, the meat was blended with
parmesan cheese and fresh herbs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pickled red onions and a cool cucumber raita spread on the soft roll balanced the deep
flavors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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So as not to forget our other food groups, we selected a side
of sauteed summer squash bathed in a basil pesto on a tomato jam sauce with crushed peanuts, that could
easily have taken center stage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Throughout our experience, I saw other plates returning to the kitchen
with small crusts remaining, and had this horrified gut reaction - I guess as
the granddaughter of a depression era home, I have trouble not cleaning my
plate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I remember sitting for hours as a
child over those terrible, waxen vegetables, wishing I could be excused from
the table.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Today I could not help but
view those crusts as perfect vessels for mopping up the remaining tomato jam.<br />
<br />
<o:p></o:p></div>
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There is something old world and authentic about
Porcellino's.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I could easily be on
Federal Hill in Providence, Rhode Island, surrounded by old Italian speaking
men, escaping their houses to tell the same stories over and over to their
buddies who laugh with gusto every time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
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days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And yet, here in this little
corner of Memphis, off of the busy Poplar Avenue, sits a very modern, hip
throwback.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Next time, I will bring the
cooler.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://www.zomato.com/memphis/porcellinos-craft-butcher-memphis" title="View Menu, Reviews, Photos & Information about Porcellino's Craft Butcher, East Memphis and other Restaurants in Memphis" target="_blank"><img alt="Porcellino's Craft Butcher Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato" src="https://www.zomato.com/logo/17207116/biglogo" style="border:none;width:104px;height:34px;padding:0px;" /></a>
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<br /></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-57400752446821328322015-02-21T22:55:00.000-06:002015-02-21T22:55:40.309-06:00Mumbai, Mississippi at City Grocery: Oxford, Mississippi<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">P</span>erhaps it is my New England roots, with deep-seated memories
of long winters, that scarred me, or maybe the atypical gray skies that hang
over a Mississippi winter, but regardless of the cause, every January I find
myself looking around for something to beat the short six weeks of my winter
funk.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With the forsythia in bloom this
weekend, I know I ought not complain, but nevertheless, I do.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fortunately, for the last three years,
renowned James Beard winning Oxford Chef, John Currence has provided me a glimmer
of excitement, just when I needed it most, by hosting weekly pop-up
dinners.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The tradition began when his
flagship restaurant, City Grocery, was undergoing a kitchen renovation and he
recognized the importance of supporting his staff during the downtime. His
solution was to host a casual, street-food themed series in his catering space,
inviting chefs in from across the south to showcase their cuisine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Back in the City Grocery kitchen, in 2014, he
hosted a more formal pre-fixe menu as a fundraiser for Rodney Scott's BBQ
rebuild, again hosting regional chefs like Ashley Christensen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This year, in support of the University
Medical Center Children's Hospital Fund, Currence announced a four-part series
featuring the likes of Kelly English, Asha Gomez and Vishwesh Bhatt, Corbin
Evans and Currence himself serving up a Chinese menu.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NfANsNXhOmY/VMgVabxQGPI/AAAAAAAACTw/yvneZQAdEOc/s1600/_IGP9179-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NfANsNXhOmY/VMgVabxQGPI/AAAAAAAACTw/yvneZQAdEOc/s1600/_IGP9179-3.jpg" height="400" width="265" /></a>As a long-time fan of Snackbar's corporate chef, Vishwesh Bhatt, who serves a
French Brasserie menu with hints of Indian spices, I looked forward to him
pairing up with Atlanta chef Asha Gomez for a full on Indian menu.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Mumbai Mississippi pop-up seemed like a
perfectly, spicy antidote to my January blues. We scored a cozy seat at the bar
with a great view of the bustling kitchen and began with the masala bread
omelet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Made with onions, green chilies,
tomatoes, cilantro and a chili sauce, the omelet was served over white bread
that was moist and sticky like a French toast; comfort food at its finest.</div>
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Bright and fresh, and a nice balance to the warm and savory omelet, the cabbage
kachumber was a coleslaw-like salad consisting of shredded raw cabbage,
carrots, hot green chilies, cilantro, mint, peanuts, and lime juice. Mustard seeds and chaat masala, a spice that
typically contains cumin, ginger, coriander and chili, provided wonderful
Indian notes. </div>
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The kutchi dabeli, fried potato slider sandwiches, are a brilliant veggie
burger option.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Served with a green
cilantro chutney and a sweet date chutney, they had just enough of the sweet
and spicy flavor going on to break up the pleasant denseness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
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If you are of the meat eating type, the khima pao, a dish of minced lamb and
beef, spiced with onions, ginger and garam masala, and piled on top of a soft,
buttered and toasted bun, would be my recommendation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
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In typical southern fashion our friendly, fellow bar-mate Lisa Donovan, a
pastry chef from Nashville and author of the Buttermilk Road Sunday Supper
blog, insisted we try a piece of her fried chicken dish and we were not
disappointed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The crispy and garlicky
fried boneless chicken had a sweet mango drizzle with an accompaniment of
roasted curry leaves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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Lastly, Mark and I both ordered the kerala shrimp salad.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The green chili, garlic shrimp were served over seasonal fresh fruit, tossed in a lime-cardamom dressing. This dish was a wonderfully light way to wrap
up our experience. </div>
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Currence didn't announce the 2015 pop-ups until mid-January this year and I
found myself with mild agita about how to get through the winter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I joke, yet these pop-ups have become an Oxford
tradition, one that provides a respite from our doldrums between SEC football
and baseball.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They are an opportunity to
taste and get to know chefs from around the south.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They provide a reason to bundle up against
our 45-degree weather on an otherwise boring Monday night.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And most importantly, each year they
generously support a good cause.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-3393786022740239752015-01-04T14:01:00.000-06:002015-10-11T18:04:26.645-05:00Sylva Rena Grocery & Bait Store: Sylva Rena, Mississippi<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">O</span>ver ten years ago, when visiting Mississippi for our second
time, dear friends took us for a drive out into the countryside north of Water
Valley.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a quintessential southern
day; the low rolling hills were lush and the sun was golden.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We pulled up to an old filling station that
looked like a movie set.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As we
approached the wooden plank on the ground that led to the front door, the sign
became clear, "Lawler's Grocery and Bait Shop".<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We entered and were surprised to see a half dozen
locals, mostly older men, chatting over breakfast, surrounded by bait, tackle
and hunting supplies.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Warm greetings
from the patrons welcomed us, as we took our seats to order eggs, country ham
and biscuits.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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That visit stuck with us, long since relocating to the
south.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was quirky, yet charming
places like Lawler’s that drew us to the hill country of Mississippi.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Strangely, on a few occasions we looked for
Lawler’s, but could not figure out where it was.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then a few months back, Mark heard about a
place out in the county near Water Valley that served up a mean burger and sure
enough, Lawler’s had since become “Sylva Rena Grocery and Bait Store”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Despite the name change and new owners, the
original decor seems to be intact, down to the plank over the mud puddle
leading to the front door.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Now that we have found our long lost haunt, we regularly take
my Dad’s old Mercedes convertible out for ride along those beautiful country
roads.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We park in amongst the trucks,
which this time of year, all have attached trailers with hunting ATVs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Every time we are warmly greeted by the staff
and by the other guests.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They always ask
if we want menus, as most people don't bother, and even though we know what we
are going to get, we look anyhow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then
moments later, without hesitation we order the burger, sometimes the regular,
sometimes the mushroom Swiss -- always with the salad bar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6z2aFAq_zQo/VKi3-zfqs1I/AAAAAAAACSg/ejCdJ4o17to/s1600/_IGP5856-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6z2aFAq_zQo/VKi3-zfqs1I/AAAAAAAACSg/ejCdJ4o17to/s1600/_IGP5856-2.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a>The first time I visited as Sylva Rena, I took one look at the
sad little contraption tucked at the back of the restaurant, sitting
uncomfortably under a deer head and quickly refused what had to be a wilted
iceberg lettuce spread.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But I have since
learned to embrace the salad bar as part of the experience, and load my bowl up
with surprisingly fresh lettuce, and pickled okra and smother it all in ranch
dressing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No awards will be won for this
part of the dinner, but I promise you will feel left out if you don't partake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xVf8v9WeNqs/VKi3-kWCBgI/AAAAAAAACSY/NRCXnveLmCQ/s1600/_IGP5841-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xVf8v9WeNqs/VKi3-kWCBgI/AAAAAAAACSY/NRCXnveLmCQ/s1600/_IGP5841-2.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a>The burgers arrive shortly and remind us of why we travel
here.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The best way I can describe the
burger is that it reminds me of those that my family would have grilled back in
the 80s but even better, before the foodie revolution became a thing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The meat is flavorful, and a little charred
and crispy on the outside from the griddle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The lettuce and tomato are cool and the bun is heavenly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Small and doughy and sweet, it completes the
burger. The potato salad and other sides are all good but without a doubt we
drive 60 miles round-trip for the burger. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WBi-9U8_HlI/VKi3-KuzRlI/AAAAAAAACSU/e4jzws2wZwI/s1600/_IGP5847-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WBi-9U8_HlI/VKi3-KuzRlI/AAAAAAAACSU/e4jzws2wZwI/s1600/_IGP5847-2.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a>There is no alcohol and no brown bagging.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you ask for a lemon for your water, you
get a plastic packet of lemon juice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Your silverware is served in a plastic bag.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Camo is welcomed, and while you are waiting
on your food, you can pick out a new lure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>A real burger, "dressed" as they say in the south, and served
on an outrageously perfect bun is the antithesis of the 15 ingredient small
plate with a foam gastrique and I think that is part of what makes it so good</div>
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We later learned the original Lawler's Grocery was indeed owned
by the kin of the Jerry Lawler, the wrestler best known for battling Andy
Kaufman.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We met Jerry last year at his
art opening in Water Valley and watched that Andy Kaufman footage with him in
the back.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Going on seven years in Mississippi,
what originally attracted us here, places like Sylva Rena, the warmth of the
people, a feeling of home, random and special moments like the one with Jerry,
continue to delight us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sometimes it is
nice to just put your hair back in a pony tail, throw on some old jeans and
boots and head south for a long country ride and a down home burger.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<a href="https://www.zomato.com/water-valley-ms/sylva-rena-water-valley-mississippi-water-valley" title="View Menu, Reviews, Photos & Information about Sylva Rena, Water Valley and other Restaurants in Water Valley, Mississippi" target="_blank"><img alt="Sylva Rena Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato" src="https://www.zomato.com/logo/18177633/biglogo" style="border:none;width:104px;height:34px;padding:0px;" /></a> Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-31744678074543063072014-08-17T16:23:00.001-05:002014-08-17T16:26:25.142-05:00Rolf & Daughters: Nashville, Tennessee<!--EndFragment--><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rM5_O_wDabQ/U_Ecc7SeRlI/AAAAAAAACOo/nTXGCIR7Hus/s1600/_IGP1339-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rM5_O_wDabQ/U_Ecc7SeRlI/AAAAAAAACOo/nTXGCIR7Hus/s1600/_IGP1339-3.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></div>
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HccsxhkJG6I/U_EbWjOmWEI/AAAAAAAACNY/EAQMKEqncyY/s1600/_IGP1329-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HccsxhkJG6I/U_EbWjOmWEI/AAAAAAAACNY/EAQMKEqncyY/s1600/_IGP1329-3.jpg" height="320" width="212" /></a><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: x-large;">I</span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 16.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">t was a sultry, summer
night in Nashville, just about dusk, the time when the air becomes full of
evening electricity. As we pulled up to <a href="http://www.rolfanddaughters.com/" target="_blank">Rolf and Daughters</a>, an oasis of
coolness in a warehouse section of Germantown, it was evident from the string
lights, the graffitied walls and the vibe coming from the outdoor patio that
tonight was going to be good, memorable even. </span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8nKqpEQNbEM/U_EbW9s3CTI/AAAAAAAACNc/e-fd82epsWQ/s1600/_IGP1330-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8nKqpEQNbEM/U_EbW9s3CTI/AAAAAAAACNc/e-fd82epsWQ/s1600/_IGP1330-3.jpg" height="320" width="212" /></a><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 16.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">Arriving a little early
for our reservation, we sat at the bar for a cocktail while taking in the
scene. Immediately it was clear that the bartender was a pro; she
bantered with her colleagues, mixed craft cocktails and shared her depth of
knowledge about food and drink all with easy comfort. She guided us,
based on our likes, to a Montaña Verde which included Espolon Blanco tequila,
Genepy des Alpes, grapefruit, cilantro, jalapeno and lime. The drink, not
only beautiful, was tangy and sweet with a perfect kick from the pepper.
The Wingman was a blend of Four Roses single barrel bourbon, Dolin Dry,
Peychaud’s bitters and Orange Oils; it was similar to a Manhattan with a bright
citrus finish.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q4del5h3eV0/U_EbXgNo5xI/AAAAAAAACOc/DGH9lVnGGcY/s1600/_IGP1333-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q4del5h3eV0/U_EbXgNo5xI/AAAAAAAACOc/DGH9lVnGGcY/s1600/_IGP1333-3.jpg" height="400" width="265" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 16.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">We were enjoying the
action and repartee amongst the staff at the bar so much, that when our table
came up, we decided to forgo the seating and remained bar-side for dinner.
The seasonal menu had changed since we looked online a few days prior,
and being currently obsessed with drippy, succulent local peaches, we had to
try the pig head with Georgia peach, spring onions, and mostarda. The
bartender jokingly, but with warning, described the pig head as anything but
lean. It was rich and chewy, full of umami, warmly coating the tongue and
reminiscent of tendon in a Vietnamese pho. The deepness was balanced
beautifully by the mostarda (candied fruit in a mustard syrup), which included
fresh, sweet peaches, local cherry tomatoes and bitter dandelion greens. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 16.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">A perennial favorite, we
could not resist the chicken liver pate. Creamy and salty, it was
smothered with a thin layer of green tomato marmalade and the kicker – it was sprinkled
with cacao. In a million years, I would not have paired cacao and chicken
liver and, now that I have experienced it, nothing else seems right.
Smothered on chewy, crunchy homemade bread, the liver was silky
perfection. We fought over licking the ramekin clean. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 16.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">Our last small plate was
a local carrot salad, which included shaved and roasted carrots, still
retaining a perfect crunch, scattered with a duck ham and drizzled with a local
buttermilk dressing. The duck had a cured, salty flavor but remained
tender. Pulling it all together was the buttermilk; imagine the lightest
and purest ranch dressing adding a gentle tanginess to the plate.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 16.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">Like the way a margherita
can delineate a pizza place, roasted chicken can define a great restaurant.
Done well, it is no longer a bland protein, but is instead elevated to a
deeply satisfying and exquisite meal. As a main course, the pastured
chicken, juicy and tender, was served with a preserved lemon and garlic confit,
feeling fresh and summery, while also hinting at the comfort of the coming
autumn season. It would seem inappropriate not to ask for a spoon to finish off
the sauce. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 16.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">Our second main course
was by far the most unusual pasta I have ever experienced and perhaps, I might
go so far as to call it life changing. A beautiful, shiny, black squid
ink trofie, a twisted pasta that hails from the Liguria region of Italy, was
served al dente and tossed with nduja, clams, scallions, and crunchy toasted
breadcrumbs. The njuda, a spreadable sausage, gave the dish a spicy
salinity and juxtaposed the sweet clams. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 16.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">Beyond satiated, we are
always suckers for a good panna cotta, and when we saw this one described as
peaches and cream, we could not resist dessert. Just hinting at sweet,
the custard was silky, and as my mom likes to say when trying to justify
dessert, "it slid down easily". <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 16.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">A music gig brought us to
Nashville, but our passion for the city lies in the great restaurants like Rolf
and Daughters, hidden in funky and diverse little neighborhoods. While we were
enjoying this feast and the camaraderie of other patrons at the bar, the room
filled up with friends, the lights dimmed, drinks flowed and that mid-summer
weekend hum I so often feel in Nashville, hovered over everyone, wrapping all
in a sigh of joy and hinting of excitement. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/47/1714486/restaurant/North-Nashville/Rolf-and-Daughters-Nashville"><img alt="Rolf and Daughters on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1714486/biglogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 34px; width: 104px;" /></a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-85728310841816607582014-01-20T11:28:00.000-06:002015-10-11T17:54:25.397-05:00City Grocery Pop-ups: Oxford, Mississippi<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rFyGFwdOfek/UttAG_W3aTI/AAAAAAAACFE/ZzzuRS-gGi0/s1600/_IGP8814.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rFyGFwdOfek/UttAG_W3aTI/AAAAAAAACFE/ZzzuRS-gGi0/s1600/_IGP8814.jpg" width="424" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">L</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">ast year, after the holidays, John Currence renovated his City Grocery</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">kitchen and during that month-long hiatus, he had the brilliant idea to</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">host weekly pop-ups in his catering space. Each week he brought in a</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">different notable chef from around the south to cook their version of</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">street food. It was essentially southern tapas served in a fun, casual,</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">garage like space, decked out with colorful lights</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">, an open kitchen and a </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">makeshift bar. Not only was this an exciting new culinary treat for the </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">locals in Oxford, but it also kept his kitchen staff employed. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"></span><br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Oh how we have missed the pop-ups. I have longed for that food-truck </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">type culture here in Oxford - simple yet exquisitely cooked fare, with </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">the added excitement of the unexpected. And therefore, I was thrilled to </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">see Currence bring back the pop-ups this January, only the theme is all </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">grown-up this year. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Each Monday in January, City Grocery will open for a 4-5 course prix fixe</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">menu, with an optional wine pairing, prepared by different rock-star</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">chefs. The pop-ups this year, are to benefit Rodney Scott, a BBQ</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">pitmaster from South Carolina, whose BBQ joint, <a href="http://thescottsbbq.com/" target="_blank">Scott's Bar-B-Que</a>, burned last</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">year. Currence is hosting a leg of the philanthropic Fatback</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Collective's effort to raise money to rebuild Scott's restaurant and</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Scott himself will be the final chef in January. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">We attended the first event last Monday featuring Memphis chefs, Andy</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Ticer and Michael Hudman of Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen and our</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">personal favorite, <a href="http://www.hogandhominy.com/" target="_blank">Hog and Hominy</a>. They cooked alongside another Memphis</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">celebrity, Kelly English of Restaurant Iris and his newest venture, a hip</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">po' boy restaurant aptly called <a href="http://www.secondlinememphis.com/" target="_blank">The Second Line</a>. With Currence, they</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">delivered four courses of fine Italian southern cuisine. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hO9l3M7IeMQ/Uts-74u6fcI/AAAAAAAACEg/zq2EAdA7dKg/s1600/_IGP3787-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hO9l3M7IeMQ/Uts-74u6fcI/AAAAAAAACEg/zq2EAdA7dKg/s1600/_IGP3787-2.jpg" width="267" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Growing up in New England, we are no strangers to Italian food. Mark is</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">100% italian from Providence, Rhode Island and the son of an amazing</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">first generation cook. My aunt hails from Sicilian roots and we grew up</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">on her parents homemade pizzas and tortellini soup. We both absolutely</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">love Mississippi and have joyously set our roots here, but if you were to</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">ask us what we miss about home, it is definitely italian food. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The dinner began with a <a href="http://www.gumbopages.com/food/app/wop-salad.html" target="_blank">wop salad</a> and browned butter garlic bread. The </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">large bowl of iceberg lettuce was topped with a homemade giardinare or </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">classic italian picked vegetable mixture of cauliflower, celery, peppers</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">and olives. This is such a utilitarian, simple dish and yet </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">so satisfying. There were no "micro greens", just the salty pickled </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">crunch of the vegetables. </span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DdrRIjfAvg0/Uts-70Fh7MI/AAAAAAAACEc/QAXl8NhMfZA/s1600/_IGP3791-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DdrRIjfAvg0/Uts-70Fh7MI/AAAAAAAACEc/QAXl8NhMfZA/s1600/_IGP3791-2.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Next up, a classic primo course, tagliatelle in a rich bolognese made of</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">ground chuck, sausage and gizzard. The freshly made pasta was cooked</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">perfectly and the large ribbons sopped up the robust sauce, nicely. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Mark's mom, Esther Yacovone, made the most amazing meatballs of veal, pork</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">and beef, browned crispy in a cast iron pan. Even better than the</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">meatballs were the brown bits left in the pan. Until tasting her version,</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I didn't really understand the big fuss over this dish. She, however,</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t8LdoBXka9E/Uts-8hykABI/AAAAAAAACEk/bzOLmD7gkhc/s1600/_IGP3794-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t8LdoBXka9E/Uts-8hykABI/AAAAAAAACEk/bzOLmD7gkhc/s1600/_IGP3794-2.jpg" width="267" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">was not cooking meatballs made with short ribs, veal, pork and guanciale,</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">which is cured pork made from the cheek. Ticer and Hudman took a basic</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">italian dish and elevated it to a decidedly a decadent specimen! </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Beautifully plated, a veal shank arrived on a bed of pureed celery root,</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">drizzled with a veal and a wild mushroom marsala sauce, and topped with a</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">gremolata. The veal was tender and falling apart, brightened by the</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">lemon and parsley toping. </span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GsnYubyf2Mc/Uts-8-8rc5I/AAAAAAAACEo/SRK-k7hUYQc/s1600/_IGP3798-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GsnYubyf2Mc/Uts-8-8rc5I/AAAAAAAACEo/SRK-k7hUYQc/s1600/_IGP3798-2.jpg" width="267" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Lastly, an almond butter cake with a homemade buttermilk ice cream</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">finished us off perfectly.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The "Memphis Mafia" wildly exceeded my expectations by taking traditional</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">italian classics and not only elevating the ingredients, but adding a</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">slight southern flare. I don't know much, but one this is certain,</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">during the month of January, you will find me on the edge of my seat,</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">waiting for Mondays to arrive.</span></div>
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<a href="https://www.zomato.com/oxford-ms/city-grocery-oxford" target="_blank" title="View Menu, Reviews, Photos & Information about City Grocery, Oxford and other Restaurants in Oxford, Mississippi"><img alt="City Grocery Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato" src="https://www.zomato.com/logo/17496922/biglogo" style="border: none; height: 34px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a> Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-46289796653739264032013-09-02T10:34:00.002-05:002013-09-02T10:34:55.349-05:00Hog & Hominy: Memphis, Tennessee<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XWjCPx279eE/UiKZ26swdhI/AAAAAAAAB9k/rj1ZN0JAvqI/s1600/_IGP2065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XWjCPx279eE/UiKZ26swdhI/AAAAAAAAB9k/rj1ZN0JAvqI/s1600/_IGP2065.jpg" height="640" width="428" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">A</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">s an adventurous eater, there are few things more exhilarating to me than the mystery of a tasting menu. Like watching a favorite athlete or artist, it is a heady experience to have a chef orchestrate my meal, matching flavors and courses, creating a culinary masterpiece. When my long-time high school friend announced her visit from Boston, as a fellow foodie I thought we would start her trip with a late dinner at </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><a href="http://www.hogandhominy.com/" target="_blank">Hog and Hominy</a></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">, not far from the airport in Memphis. I had a casual pizza in mind before heading south to Mississippi, but when I learned they offer a chef's tasting option, our fate was sealed. What was originally plain old excitement, had escalated to elation, over eating at this fine establishment, known for its southern-meets-Italian twist on pizza and pork.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Upon arrival, we were ushered to the chef's table, a bar overlooking the open kitchen, where we were easily persuaded to order the seven course option. Instead of a set nightly prix fixe, the chefs pick dishes specifically for us, from the menu or specials.</span></div>
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Andy Ticer, one of the chef owners, who with his partner Michael Hudman recently received <a href="http://www.foodandwine.com/best_new_chefs/andy-ticer-and-michael-hudman" target="_blank">2013 Food & Wine's</a> best new chef award, introduced himself when he brought the first dish, a perfectly dressed fried chicken skin Caesar salad. The fried skins were clearly the stars of the dish, but it should not go without mention that the romaine greens were lightly dressed in beautifully tangy dressing, making this oft overused salad, fresh.<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><br /></span></span>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Next, Andy who has an easy way about him, brought over a wood fired spaghetti squash, served Italian style with a red sauce, Calabria oil, buffalo mozzarella and Parmesan cheese. Upon stammering a bit with the description, he finally turned to us with the most passionate grin and may or may not have simply exclaimed, "It is just <expletive> awesome!". That was an understatement.</expletive></span><br />
<expletive><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span></expletive></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DslxNg00txs/UiKaQPaWlwI/AAAAAAAAB98/HsLCaI-NugY/s1600/_IGP2060.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DslxNg00txs/UiKaQPaWlwI/AAAAAAAAB98/HsLCaI-NugY/s1600/_IGP2060.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Course three was an asparagus dish with crispy pepperoni fried in lardo fatback, a pimento chese emulsion, and a boatload of trout roe that offered a salty pop. Southern and laden, yet not smothered, the flavors were distinct and bright.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The most artfully designed dish of the night was another inspired by classic southern cooking; a Johnny cake was topped with a cream cheese, marscapone and caraway seed spread, tobacco onions and catfish gravlax. The catfish was buttery and elegant, all grown up from its typical, and also delicious fried alter ego.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lCiCTtZqokE/UiKagyf2GMI/AAAAAAAAB-E/mlNCeHiSark/s1600/_IGP2070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lCiCTtZqokE/UiKagyf2GMI/AAAAAAAAB-E/mlNCeHiSark/s1600/_IGP2070.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></div>
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Nlty_Ra3Zkw/UhF1mPxGYcI/AAAAAAAAB8s/kt4SW8G5AiM/s1600/_IGP2070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Speaking of fried, the peanut agrodolce sweetbreads, served over a cilantro jalapeño sauce were hearty and chewy and had a great sweet and sour flavor that was freshened by the bright and spicy sauce. This dish may ruin the haughty reputation of sweetbreads, as I know I am going to crave these with beer and football.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hk8KA7_hrcs/UiKawDzldFI/AAAAAAAAB-U/q2r30Nii0Vc/s1600/_IGP2077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hk8KA7_hrcs/UiKawDzldFI/AAAAAAAAB-U/q2r30Nii0Vc/s1600/_IGP2077.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Andy, who had been taking great care of us with each course he delivered, conferred with one of the chefs, requesting fresh vegetables for the next dish. His passion for the food and the rhythm of the courses was evident. The local baby summer squash sautéed with mint and brown butter and then deglazed with a white wine, were the perfect palette cleanser at this stretch of our meal, as were the collards served with hominy and a vinegar finish.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xXhE0-ZA3ZA/UiKaoEWYNbI/AAAAAAAAB-M/49ZzHkdsZl8/s1600/_IGP2072.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xXhE0-ZA3ZA/UiKaoEWYNbI/AAAAAAAAB-M/49ZzHkdsZl8/s1600/_IGP2072.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a><br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K77maqoRJgg/UhF1kFy7KwI/AAAAAAAAB78/7t0rmR5pln0/s1600/_IGP2077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"></span></a><br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r8CovqdPEk8/UiKbBzm3HoI/AAAAAAAAB-k/UPl8Mlg5CYM/s1600/_IGP2085.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r8CovqdPEk8/UiKbBzm3HoI/AAAAAAAAB-k/UPl8Mlg5CYM/s1600/_IGP2085.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O-wxZdaELaA/UhF1ir3mjHI/AAAAAAAAB7c/ucUDrsQAMug/s1600/_IGP2072.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Little did we know he was gearing us up for one of their famous wood fire grilled pizzas. By now our repartee with Andy was warm and almost teasing, like we had known him for years. He asked us our preferences for the pizza and offered suggestions. His first thought was a Margherita, as he believes the classic pie is defining of a place, however since Kristin had been living in Boston's Italian North End, she was craving something more uniquely southern. Without hesitation Andy decided upon the Red Eye, which was covered with a rich, red sugo sauce made with the scraps from their in-house charcuterie, and then topped with pork belly, egg, fontina, and celery leaf. Admittedly, we were starting to slow down, but there was no way we were letting this pizza go to waste. After finishing the last slice, the surprised chefs had a look of new-found respect on their faces. </span></div>
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At about this time we noticed the tempo and food on the line began to change. Trays of huge meatballs were brought out and smashed on the grill into a burger, topped with onions and smacked again on the flip side. Andy explained that they have recently opened a late-night deck serving <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frito_pie" target="_blank">Frito pies</a> and other snacks. Since we were in the right place at the right time and had proven our eating prowess, he was going to bring us one of their acclaimed burgers. Aaron explained that is was named after <a href="http://www.johntedge.com/" target="_blank">John T. Edge</a>, an Oxford friend and famous southern food writer, who sat at the bar one day asking for a great buger, but shooting down all their fancy ideas. He kept pushing and eventually Aaron Winters, chef de cuisine, slapped a burger on the grilled, mashed the onions into it, served it up dressed, and today it bears his moniker proudly.</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C5fw8yPDQxM/UiKbDqGZg9I/AAAAAAAAB-s/EneqQYAxG9E/s1600/_IGP2088.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C5fw8yPDQxM/UiKbDqGZg9I/AAAAAAAAB-s/EneqQYAxG9E/s1600/_IGP2088.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rz9kNXfNOsc/UiKbFJ3W2QI/AAAAAAAAB-0/viXBGzcSvTs/s1600/_IGP2089.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rz9kNXfNOsc/UiKbFJ3W2QI/AAAAAAAAB-0/viXBGzcSvTs/s1600/_IGP2089.jpg" height="320" width="214" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-abNe8G-KJ2c/UhF1mNM1DGI/AAAAAAAAB8o/AMZtAcfQChw/s1600/_IGP2089.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Aaron realized it would not be right to let two Yankees leave his bar without introducing us to the infamous Delta <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2007/05/09/dining/09kool.html?_r=0" target="_blank">koolickle</a>. I have heard rumor of such vittles, most often served in a jar near the cash register at fillin' stations in the Delta, but until now had not had the ("pleasure" might be a strong word,) experience of pickles soaked in Kool Aid. Definitely novel, I urge everyone to try them once, particularly alongside the old school, perfection of the John T. Edge burger.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br />At last we reached dessert and although completely satiated, we decided to try the local Blueberry Beauregard pie as our chef's eyes lit up while describing the custardy filling topped with a dollop of homemade orange marmalade. Of course they would not let us get away with just one slice, and so brought with it a slice of their peanut butter pie, which was surprisingly light and worth every bit of fanfare it receives. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">From the first bite every part of this meal was executed beautifully, timed exceptionally, and served with such warmth that we felt a part of a personally directed play. Andy, and his team of chefs had an eye on us the entire time; like a truly talented artist, he designed a culinary story that felt specific to our desires. The italian southern marriage equals quintessential hospitality; the cultures share the joie de vivre for the flavors, the instinct to ensure you want for nothing and that you are fed until you cannot handle another bite, and the enveloping sense of pure celebration of combining food and friends. I cannot think of a more beautiful way to welcome my dear friend back to the South.</span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-20994581283041291622013-02-03T10:20:00.000-06:002015-10-11T17:56:38.410-05:00Oxbow: Clarksdale, Mississippi<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FFcc5SRDiF4/UQZ5uLcaFHI/AAAAAAAABP0/M0PlAPrzVZo/s1600/_IGP5711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FFcc5SRDiF4/UQZ5uLcaFHI/AAAAAAAABP0/M0PlAPrzVZo/s640/_IGP5711.jpg" width="424" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s64vXe3dkq4/UQZ5t2fDu_I/AAAAAAAABPw/xFzSELBrJcw/s1600/_IGP5712.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s64vXe3dkq4/UQZ5t2fDu_I/AAAAAAAABPw/xFzSELBrJcw/s400/_IGP5712.jpg" width="400" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">B</span>ack in 2005, while living an hour north of Boston, Mark saw
an ad in a National Geographic Travel Magazine featuring Clarksdale,
Mississippi.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As a blues pianist, Mark
was intrigued with the idea of visiting the home of the blues.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Legend has it that Robert Johnson, iconic
father of the blues guitar, sold his soul to the devil for mastery of the
instrument, on a dark night, at the crossroads of highway 61 and 49 in Clarksdale,
Missisippi.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The mystique sounded more
exciting than a Carribean beach, and so it was that we found ourselves, joined
by another couple, spending five days at the <a href="http://www.shackupinn.com/" target="_blank">Shack-up Inn</a>, a beer and breakfast
"resort", composed of eclectically decorated, rustic, share-cropper
shacks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Note to those of you planning to
visit, it will likely be the most soulful, story laden vacation you ever take,
however if you are the type inclined towards manicures and blow-outs, this may
not be for you.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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After an initial discussion that sounded something like
"What have we done?", as this was not your typical tourist mecca, Clarksdale began to grow on us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We found <a href="http://cathead.biz/CatHead/Home.html" target="_blank">Cathead</a>, a local folk art gallery
owned by Roger Stolle, a transplant who was passionate about local art, and
who booked much of the town's music.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By
night, we partied at <a href="http://groundzerobluesclub.com/" target="_blank">Ground Zero</a>, co-owned by Morgan Freeman and Bill Luckett,
featuring a lively blues music scene.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Delta Amusement, charmed us in the way that only an Italian dive in
Misissippi, serving the best crawfish I have ever tasted, could.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One night, we even ended up at a juke joint on
the outskirts of town, surrounded by nothing but cotton fields for ten miles in
any direction.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The club was run by
women, who despite not serving a regular menu, insisted on frying up late-night
chicken, while the band ran home for more instruments so that Mark and our
friends could join the jam onstage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nPGraao71l0/UQZ5vb3RjeI/AAAAAAAABQI/Hbu0kjmGQ74/s1600/_IGP5734.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nPGraao71l0/UQZ5vb3RjeI/AAAAAAAABQI/Hbu0kjmGQ74/s400/_IGP5734.jpg" width="400" /></a>Fast-forward eight years and we are now living in
Mississippi, thanks to the love affair that began with that synchronistic trip
back in 2005. Clarksdale has evolved in the years since.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It still features a downtown, deteriorating
around the edges, stuck in the 50s, plenty of vacant storefronts, yet
nostalgically beautiful in the most raw of ways.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tucked in amongst the crumbling facades of
empty department stores and old banks, you will find a beating heart.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bubba O'Keefe converted an old Woolworths department
store into <a href="http://www.fiveanddimelofts.com/" target="_blank">The Lofts at the Five and Dime</a>, beneath which resides a modern coffee shop cafe, called the Yazoo Pass.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are art galleries in town,
such as the <a href="http://stanstreet.com/" target="_blank">Hambone Gallery</a>, owned by Stan and Dixie Street.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The <a href="http://www.stoneponypizza.com/" target="_blank">Stone Pony</a> Pizza joint and <a href="http://www.rustclarksdale.com/" target="_blank">Rust</a> Restaurant are recent modern additions
to the culinary milieu. Despite its struggles, we have come to expect every visit to Clarksdale to reveal something new - a new restaurant, a gallery, a new festival, a new inn or B&B, or a local entrepreneur trying something innovative.<br />
<br /></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PiEXsSnHJPY/UQZ5tz1VulI/AAAAAAAABP4/Z8w-5xB8aeo/s1600/_IGP5718.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PiEXsSnHJPY/UQZ5tz1VulI/AAAAAAAABP4/Z8w-5xB8aeo/s400/_IGP5718.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Oxbow-Restaurant-and-Catering/139314899463353" target="_blank">Oxbow</a> is the latest addition to the changing landscape in
Clarksdale.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> On a recent trip to the town, for the Clarksdale Film Festival, Mark stopped in to meet Oxbow owners, Erica and Hayden Hall. Oxbow started as a funky little cafe and bistro and quickly received high praise for their signature fish tacos. Glance at their walls and you'll find articles and references of folks singing their praises. These include Andrew Zimmern, Travel & Leisure magazine, Delta magazine and many more -- perhaps lending credence to the adage "if you build it, they will come". </span>The owners have an inspired food vision of what Clarksdale needs, a town traditionally known more for fantastic BBQ at <a href="http://www.abesbbq.com/" target="_blank">Abe's</a> and addictive tamales at <a href="http://www.tamaletrail.com/OH_hicks.shtml" target="_blank">Hick's</a> than for healthy food options. <br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span>
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">Most recently, Oxbow has taken a market-driven transformation from their initial idea and has evolved into a gourmet, specialty food purveyor featuring local meats from Stan's Meat Market, Stone Mill artisan breads, Brown Family Dairy products and an extensive beer and prepared food selection. The atmosphere is hip meets Delta rustic and throughout the store you will find Hayden's eclectic junk-adapted artwork. The Hall's vision also includes a food truck and soon-to-be-scheduled in-house special events which are certain to spread the word.</span><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span>
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">If you find yourself in Clarksdale searching for the mythical crossroads, start at the crossroads of 3rd street and Delta avenue, pack a lunch from Oxbow, ask 10 people where the exact spot is, and see how many answers you get. Probably as many as if you asked where Robert Johnson is buried.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dxKUBKEw_sU/UQZ5vkojuvI/AAAAAAAABQQ/cE7vxsx9hOA/s1600/_IGP5728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dxKUBKEw_sU/UQZ5vkojuvI/AAAAAAAABQQ/cE7vxsx9hOA/s640/_IGP5728.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Hayden & Erica Hall</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://www.zomato.com/clarksdale-ms/oxbow-clarksdale" title="View Menu, Reviews, Photos & Information about Oxbow, Clarksdale and other Restaurants in Clarksdale" target="_blank"><img alt="Oxbow Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato" src="https://www.zomato.com/logo/17498530/biglogo" style="border:none;width:104px;height:34px;padding:0px;" /></a> Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-75045191653660858762013-01-12T17:44:00.001-06:002013-01-13T17:11:00.043-06:00Big Bad Pop-Ups, Oxford, Mississippi<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wV1JnMg3mp0/UPH0V5VkAgI/AAAAAAAABEM/uTULaz5RQWE/s1600/BAIJUQ_CcAAkqnp.jpg-large.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wV1JnMg3mp0/UPH0V5VkAgI/AAAAAAAABEM/uTULaz5RQWE/s640/BAIJUQ_CcAAkqnp.jpg-large.jpeg" width="420" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">I </span>experienced the most divine cauliflower of my life, on Thursday evening, at John Currence's <a href="http://www.facebook.com/events/386852298068949/" target="_blank">Big Bad Pop-Ups </a>concept. Brilliantly, this chef and entrepreneur invited four top chefs to Oxford including Elie Kirshtein, Kelly English, and the team of Andrew Ticer and Micheal Hudman, to host week-long pop up restaurants in his catering space, the Main Event. Already equipped with a full kitchen, the site hosts a casual culinary theatre, Wednesday through Saturday, allowing locals to taste the food of a variety of chefs, all the while driving revenue and employing staff during a month-long kitchen renovation at his <a href="http://citygroceryonline.com/" target="_blank">City Grocery restaurant. </a> </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875);"><br /></span>
The pop-up concept grew out of a London trend almost ten years ago and has been used by restaurateurs to test concepts, sell investors, and provide a hip, new brand for younger audiences. <br />
This week Elie Kirshtein crafted Israeli street food, featuring small plates such as a Turkish hummus served warm with paper-thin slices of toasted garlic, butter and paprika. Unlike the typical grocery store cousin, this hummus was light, almost whipped, and creamy. Our poor server nearly received a hand smack, when he very politely tried to take our plate away, prior to us cleaning the last dredges of garlicky goodness from the bowl with warm pita slices. <br />
<br />
The cauliflower, whose tips seemed dredged in tahini, which when roasted created a crispy crust, was then tossed with shaved celery, parsley and toasted pine nuts. Determined to recreate this <span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969);">bright and slightly citrus infused dish, I </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875);">have thought of little else since Wednesday. </span><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-86778889545606423682012-12-09T19:26:00.001-06:002013-01-12T17:48:53.744-06:00Catbird Seat: Nashville, Tennessee<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qTDu7dczhC4/UMUv8UfKRuI/AAAAAAAAA6g/Dpq5sWLNQTU/s1600/_IGP5132.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qTDu7dczhC4/UMUv8UfKRuI/AAAAAAAAA6g/Dpq5sWLNQTU/s640/_IGP5132.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_GbEu9upfgs/UMUxUjDlM_I/AAAAAAAAA6o/eaBua7UWioA/s1600/_IGP5135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_GbEu9upfgs/UMUxUjDlM_I/AAAAAAAAA6o/eaBua7UWioA/s320/_IGP5135.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tocai Frilano Cocktail</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">I</span>t looks like an Oreo, sitting on a perfect wooden block, waiting for
us, as we emerge from the elevator, proceed down the trippy wallpapered hallway
leading to the simple, clean, restaurant kitchen of Nashville's <a href="https://thecatbirdseatrestaurant.com/" target="_blank">Catbird Seat</a>,
but expecting the unexpected, the treat is actually an earthy porcini mushroom biscuit
filled with a smooth Parmesan cream.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And
just like that, our minds are blown, and so goes the night.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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Located upstairs above the Patterson House, a local craft cocktail haven,
the Catbird Seat is a culinary theatre in the round, seating 32 guests at a U
shaped bar, intimately overlooking the kitchen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The performers, led by chefs Erik Anderson and Josh Habiger, calmly wield
tweezers, among other instruments to achieve artistic and gastronomic
masterpieces.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The prix fixe menu is more
than culinary genius, it is truly a transcendent experience.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XKo7Lhf_Ix4/UMUxpDCXGMI/AAAAAAAAA64/PLwK3vUCUnQ/s1600/_IGP5153.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XKo7Lhf_Ix4/UMUxpDCXGMI/AAAAAAAAA64/PLwK3vUCUnQ/s400/_IGP5153.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nantucket Bay Scallops</td></tr>
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Anticipating that this would be a memorable night, we opted for the
reserve beverage pairing created by the talented beverage manager, Jane Lopes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She started us with a cocktail of Tocai
Frilano (Savignon Vert), Cocchi Americano, Mezcal with a splash of soda water
and lime.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">Following the Oreos was a tongue-in-cheek plate featuring a play on mortadella, a cracker jack and hot chicken. Elevating deli meat to an entirely new level, the house made mortadella was replete with pistachios, garnished with pickled ramps, and shaved Parmesan. A shitake mushroom cracker jack made with sorghum, was an elegant version of a childhood favorite. Lastly, a riff on Nashville's famous hot chicken, a crispy slice of chicken skin was dusted with chili powder and finished with a dot of wonder bread puree.</span></div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">Next up was my favorite of the eleven courses and not just because of my New England roots; raw Nantucket Bay scallops tasting briny and of the sea, were covered with paper-thin, lusciously red, slices of Mt. Rose apple, then topped with a dollop of Island Creek Oyster puree. Also on the plate in an homage to oyster stuffing, was a cornbread dressing with a cube of delicate earl grey and chamomile jelly. I grew up mere miles from Duxbury harbor, the home of <a href="http://www.islandcreekoysters.com/" target="_blank">Island Creek</a> oysters, and possess a deep affinity for their product. In a million years, I would never imagine fooling with such perfection in a shell, however I have since dreamed of mainlining that puree, directly from the pastry bag, on more than one occasion. This fall inspired, light dish was served with a Basa Juan Cider, that had a wonderful sweet and tart balance and a slight sparkle. </span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ryzQ8ys0bJU/UMUxvb0g23I/AAAAAAAAA7A/k-C9my_5R9I/s1600/_IGP5158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ryzQ8ys0bJU/UMUxvb0g23I/AAAAAAAAA7A/k-C9my_5R9I/s400/_IGP5158.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunchoke Soup</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Over a bowl filled with artichokes, roasted fennel, black olives, black truffle, and fermented black garlic, was poured a sunchoke and caramelized yogurt soup flavored with a little thyme oil. The black garlic added a crunch and deep flavor that when combined with the truffles and the olives, worked symbiotically with the creamy soup. The rich flavors were complimented by a dry and fruity, 2008 Montinore Pinot Gris served, unexpectedly in a green chartreuse rinsed glass.</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KiikQptYOug/UMUyMB2b2ZI/AAAAAAAAA7I/fhDkfnmrPNs/s1600/_IGP5161.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KiikQptYOug/UMUyMB2b2ZI/AAAAAAAAA7I/fhDkfnmrPNs/s400/_IGP5161.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Golden Tilefish</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Continuing onto the main courses, Golden Tilefish was delicately
poached, and wrapped with a ribbon of chipotle, completed by an avocado puree,
pickled baby onions and radishes and dusted with a coconut powder.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Admittedly, these ingredients sound
incongruent, but together they created a buttery, crispy, spicy sonata, that
paired nicely with a 2010 Weingut Robert Weil Riesling.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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It would not be a fall feast without fowl and for me this presented an
opportunity to try a new bird. Roasted pigeon leg was served over a squab dashi,
smoky oak broth with a hibiscus sugar-cured egg, nasturtium leaves, black
trumpet and matsutake mushrooms and shaved tuna. The poultry was succulent and
begged to be eaten from the bone.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A dry,
French, 2010 Domaine Berthet-Bondet Cotes du Jura Rubis embraced the hearty
dish.<o:p></o:p></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jvbiF2W3G44/UMUyTU54-7I/AAAAAAAAA7Q/bmh_rLGSquA/s1600/_IGP5172.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jvbiF2W3G44/UMUyTU54-7I/AAAAAAAAA7Q/bmh_rLGSquA/s400/_IGP5172.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roasted Pigeon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
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Rare and marbled, a Wagyu beef filet, was served with red
beets and sauce and topped with a fresh, house-made cow cheese, horseradish
cream, and onions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Yukon gold crispy
potato chips added texture. The accompanying Sam Adams Imperial Series Double
Bock served in an Aalburg Aquavit rinsed glass, may have spoiled me for life and
helped me to discover a tolerable use for aquavit.<o:p></o:p></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wETt7w_lLos/UMUyY-IA9XI/AAAAAAAAA7Y/RGCi4poe8Gk/s1600/_IGP5186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wETt7w_lLos/UMUyY-IA9XI/AAAAAAAAA7Y/RGCi4poe8Gk/s400/_IGP5186.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wagyu Beef Filet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Our main courses behind us, we moved on to the deconstructed cheese
course channeling the flavors of beer with roasted barley and oats.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was paired with a sparkling Gruet Brut,
mixed with honey, quince vinegar, and walnut liqueur.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
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For dessert, we began with a beautiful pear sorbet, in the shape of the
sliced fruit, with a black walnut pudding, a cardamom crisp, and an Amaro
Fernet blanco gel that exploded in an herbal liqueur splendor in the mouth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Perhaps my favorite drink of the night, was
the Sawa Sawa sparkling sake served in an elegant, custom glass.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then came the egg.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A petite shell was filled with a maple
custard, hinting of flavors of thyme and hibiscus honey and garnished with a
crispy slice of Benton's bacon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For the
ice cream lovers among us, the next dessert course featured a charred oak ice
cream, a vanilla cake, cherry crisp, pineapple gel and bourbon encapsulations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fondly
referred to as bourbon balls, these small, yet powerful, exploding treats
remind me of a refined, adult jello shot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A sweet Trius ice wine served in
a bourbon rinsed glass, married aromatically with the dessert.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WEtmL4Yc-WY/UMUzhPJ2g8I/AAAAAAAAA8A/-yZzYEDVik4/s1600/Screen+shot+2012-12-09+at+6.57.09+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WEtmL4Yc-WY/UMUzhPJ2g8I/AAAAAAAAA8A/-yZzYEDVik4/s640/Screen+shot+2012-12-09+at+6.57.09+PM.png" width="502" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dessert Quartet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Satiated, and a little giggly, we had reached the end of our journey and
immediately began reminiscing about the courses, staking claim to our favorites.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From the simple atmosphere, evoking a sense
of sitting at a friend's kitchen bar, to the handwritten menus provided post-meal
as a memento, and to the ever accessible chefs, who served the food, detailing
stories of farmers and inspirations, this evening of food theatre surpassed all
of my expectations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As we thanked our
chefs, we were served one last surprise course, on the now-familiar wooden
block, homemade coffee-and-cream oreos.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-03fDiuQ0-JU/UMUzqEa8LkI/AAAAAAAAA8I/zfrdwvCjUeg/s1600/_IGP5179.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-03fDiuQ0-JU/UMUzqEa8LkI/AAAAAAAAA8I/zfrdwvCjUeg/s400/_IGP5179.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mayme Gretsch Servin' Up Hot Chicken</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1CsBrvvNy5k/UMUzvIDRXyI/AAAAAAAAA8Q/Al5-fVO4RIc/s1600/_IGP5206.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1CsBrvvNy5k/UMUzvIDRXyI/AAAAAAAAA8Q/Al5-fVO4RIc/s400/_IGP5206.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maple Thyme Custard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WBxLgdJjtLM/UMUzxM6tmdI/AAAAAAAAA8Y/AvAqnw-xqQQ/s1600/_IGP5207.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WBxLgdJjtLM/UMUzxM6tmdI/AAAAAAAAA8Y/AvAqnw-xqQQ/s400/_IGP5207.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cheese Course Assembly</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-16BE2gOwLzA/UMU0QJRSgYI/AAAAAAAAA8g/xs3gTiBrbkc/s1600/_IGP5199.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-16BE2gOwLzA/UMU0QJRSgYI/AAAAAAAAA8g/xs3gTiBrbkc/s400/_IGP5199.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sawa Sawa Sparkling Sake</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Author: Bethany Cooper<br />
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<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/47/1620552/restaurant/Belmont-Vanderbilt/The-Catbird-Seat-Nashville"><img alt="The Catbird Seat on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1620552/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-72191007957167814932012-11-24T16:48:00.000-06:002012-11-24T16:48:05.202-06:00City Grocery Staff Meal: Oxford, Mississippi<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0Ht9A9BGoC8/ULDuxbZZVKI/AAAAAAAAAyo/lrNnpE-Kcao/s1600/_IGP4141.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /><img border="0" height="424" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0Ht9A9BGoC8/ULDuxbZZVKI/AAAAAAAAAyo/lrNnpE-Kcao/s640/_IGP4141.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">I </span>cut my teeth waiting tables at Friendly's, a New England chain known
for its ice cream and diner-style food.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>While it was far from fine dining, I learned how to hustle and
multi-task, turning dozens of tables each shift.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I enjoyed the camaraderie of the diverse
staff, and I came to understand the value of customer relationships.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>During breaks we ordered a half-price menu
item and wolfed it down in the solitude of a back booth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The clamwich was my favorite, washed down
with a humongous strawberry milk that would make the Mayor of NYC cringe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F5yiJDmmEz4/ULDu4eV-EVI/AAAAAAAAAzo/Fi8llsGNHOU/s1600/_IGP4179.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F5yiJDmmEz4/ULDu4eV-EVI/AAAAAAAAAzo/Fi8llsGNHOU/s400/_IGP4179.jpg" width="265" /></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">After
three or four years, I itched to try my skills at more upscale dining and
landed a summer job at restaurant on the South Shore of Massachusetts called
the Hummarock River House.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Owned by a
Greek husband and wife team, they specialized in Mediterranean inspired
seafood.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I quickly came to realize the
difficulty in juggling multiple courses, learning cocktail language, and discerning
between Chardonnay and Chablis, all at a time when I had barely sipped
Boone's Farm around a camp fire. To say I was in over my head was an
understatement, but the staff were kind and my fondest memories of that
induction into fine dining, happened around 5pm each night.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By that time, we had finished our prep work, had a little downtime before the first early-birds arrived, and as a
staff we sat down to eat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Typically we
had soup, ladled out of a big cauldron. Sometimes the kitchen would serve us a
new dish or prepare one of the specials for the night so that we could better
describe the flavors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This time of the day was special, the calm before the storm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It reminded me that each shift was a new day, and a chance to prove to
myself that I could stay out of the weeds that service.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RO26H5HuRxk/ULEL1y6TlkI/AAAAAAAAA3M/N0NE2j_KVmA/s1600/_IGP4181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RO26H5HuRxk/ULEL1y6TlkI/AAAAAAAAA3M/N0NE2j_KVmA/s400/_IGP4181.jpg" width="265" /></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I
eventually grew more comfortable on the floor and was even asked to be cocktail
waitress, when strangely, after hours, the fine restaurant turned into a wild
bar scene.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I often retell stories of the bar fights and the drunken guy who managed to lose his pants but wanted to order
a beer, naked.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I, however, had not thought about the staff dinners until recently, when I learned that Christine
Carroll and <a href="http://www.jodyeddy.com/intro/index.html" target="_blank">Jody Eddy</a>, wrote an entire, beautiful, culinary book about staff
meals, the world around.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The book,
titled “<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Come-Were-Closed-Invitation-Restaurants/dp/076244262X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1353772939&sr=8-1&keywords=come+in+we%27re+closed" target="_blank">Come In, We’re Closed: an Invitation to Staff Meals at the World’s Best Restaurants</a>” <span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-themecolor: text1;">includes</span> City Grocery, here in Oxford, Mississippi. Recently, I
had the pleasure of joining a staff meal with Jody Eddy and Executive Chef John
Currence, celebrating Jody's book tour.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2-rLtemS3gc/ULDvDIuD93I/AAAAAAAAA1I/HioftY0qxD8/s1600/_IGP4221.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2-rLtemS3gc/ULDvDIuD93I/AAAAAAAAA1I/HioftY0qxD8/s400/_IGP4221.jpg" width="265" /></span></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RO26H5HuRxk/ULEL1y6TlkI/AAAAAAAAA3M/N0NE2j_KVmA/s1600/_IGP4181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><a href="http://citygroceryonline.com/" target="_blank">City Grocery</a>, located in the heart of Oxford's scenic square, is known for its southern cuisine classics like shrimp and grits as well as seasonal inventive twists like Mississippi fried quail and waffles with spicy pepper jelly and green onion coulis. On this early evening, the front of the house was quiet, aside from a few servers checking last minute place settings, and others sitting together folding napkins for the impending rush. The bartender methodically loaded ice, sliced citrus, and stocked liquor. The kitchen was another story, bustling with preparations for the evening meal. Cucumbers were sliced, sheet pans of crostinis were toasted, and pots simmered on the stove all in a highly orchestrated frenetic symphony. </span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5KtX4H1fYGc/ULELr8x7RWI/AAAAAAAAA3E/FJc01SkPD28/s1600/_IGP4216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5KtX4H1fYGc/ULELr8x7RWI/AAAAAAAAA3E/FJc01SkPD28/s400/_IGP4216.jpg" width="265" /></span></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none;">At some point, with little fanfare, the kitchen staff emerged and loaded the bar top with a steaming cast iron pot of chicken and dumplings, cornbread, cucumber and onion salad, and bananas foster bread pudding. The waitstaff brought plates and joined in, family style, serving themselves and sitting together at back tables. Conversation flowed across tables, stories were shared, and it truly felt like a family dinner.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none;"> </span></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DSSamrvmNHk/ULDu8IPdJ7I/AAAAAAAAA0I/1K-_hY5u92M/s1600/_IGP4202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DSSamrvmNHk/ULDu8IPdJ7I/AAAAAAAAA0I/1K-_hY5u92M/s400/_IGP4202.jpg" width="265" /></span></span></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DSSamrvmNHk/ULDu8IPdJ7I/AAAAAAAAA0I/1K-_hY5u92M/s1600/_IGP4202.jpg"></a></span></span>The chicken and dumplings were unlike any I have experienced. The chicken was loosely shredded and the consistency was that of a rich stew. The moist cornbread acted as the dumplings, sopping the juices, and the fresh cucumber and onion salad with herbes de Provence, added a bright note. I overindulged a bit on the main course, but left a little room to sample the bread pudding, fortunately, as it was crispy on the outer edges and custardy on the inside with chunks of banana, and then drizzled with the brown sugar rum sauce and a dollop of freshly whipped cream. </div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Looking around at the assembled team, I could not help but think about the importance of culture to business, particularly in the restaurant industry where staff is working together, in a swiftly paced environment, as a team. While I loved the solitude of my clamwich, at Friendly's, and realize there is no down-time in that type of fast-casual environment, I have to wonder what the impact would have been, if we could have taken 20 minutes each day to break bread together. </span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cMf56RDLWfw/ULEL3z8wrsI/AAAAAAAAA3U/MQRGmozGPcw/s1600/_IGP4197.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cMf56RDLWfw/ULEL3z8wrsI/AAAAAAAAA3U/MQRGmozGPcw/s640/_IGP4197.jpg" width="424" /></span></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5KtX4H1fYGc/ULELr8x7RWI/AAAAAAAAA3E/FJc01SkPD28/s1600/_IGP4216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">As the staff finished eating, they swiftly cleared the tables and the bar, and within moments, the tempo again changed to the feeling you get ten minutes before anyone shows up to your party - a little excited energy, a bit of last minute movement to complete lingering tasks and a delicious quiet that is guaranteed to transform momentarily. Everyone was ready, in the groove, satiated by a great meal and inspired by their team.</span></span></div>
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<!--EndFragment-->Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-56934580657248676472012-10-27T13:07:00.000-05:002012-11-21T11:58:34.858-06:00Southampton, Bermuda: The Pompano Beach Club<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">M</span>y mom has been on a 20 year mission, with the sole quest to convince me
to visit her favorite vacation spot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She
was a military officer's wife, with passports full of exotic destinations, and
a penchant for beaches, and therefore I am puzzled as to why I was not
persuaded by her passion for this one small, easily accessible island, off the
coast of the Carolinas, until now. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My mom has
traveled to Bermuda seven times.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Her
first trip was in the early 60s when she visited with a girlfriend. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A few years later, she switched her honeymoon
to Bermuda from the originally planned Jamaica, at the last minute, due to
political unrest and that was the beginning of my parents' joint love affair
with the island.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They returned five more
times together over the years. My dad adored the snorkeling and the freedom of
the mopeds, while my mom enjoyed the beaches and the food.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I grew up with these stories and watched
countless slide shows of their trips, but for some reason never had an urge to
go, until my dad's illness and eventual death a year ago.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>During that incredibly hard year, my mom and
I promised ourselves that we would visit the island as a way to see some light
at the end of the tunnel of illness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>That dream got us through some tough nights.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One year after my father's death, together,
as promised we made the trip, and made memories that will stay with me for my
lifetime.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-psztfTlhCAo/UIwToi-tRgI/AAAAAAAAAtk/_MgX8YvYexc/s1600/_IGP1014-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-psztfTlhCAo/UIwToi-tRgI/AAAAAAAAAtk/_MgX8YvYexc/s400/_IGP1014-3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The beauty of Bermuda is all that my mother described, and more, as the
colors of the ocean, flowers and houses cannot possibly be summed up in words
or even in photography.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The colonial
architecture is stunning and evokes a strong sense of time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The people are hardworking and friendly with a
beautiful blend of British and American cultures, yet coupled with a distinct
island style. <o:p></o:p></div>
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We arrived at our destination, the Pompano Beach Club, a small 75 room,
family owned, resort, on the south side of the island, in the parish of Southampton.
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had worked with one of the the owners
years ago, back in New England, his American home base, but I had not stayed in
touch and was stunned to see him greet us and remember me when we walked in the
door to check-in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Over the course of our
week there, I came to learn that Tom Lamb and his brother Larry, are truly
masterful hoteliers in the warmest, convivial sense of the word.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qxezDS-ns2Y/UIwTnddS8oI/AAAAAAAAAtc/L8YnuJ_XszU/s1600/_IGP0979-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qxezDS-ns2Y/UIwTnddS8oI/AAAAAAAAAtc/L8YnuJ_XszU/s400/_IGP0979-3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Situated directly on the water, the views from every angle of the
resort, were magnificent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We had the
choice of 2 restaurants on-site or could take advantage of an exchange program
with other resorts, but despite the options, each night we opted for the Cedar
Room outdoor balcony where we could enjoy the fresh air and the deep colors of
the sunset.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From this vantage point we
could see the beach and even the wildlife in the crystal clear waters. One evening
as the sun was setting in colors of pink and orange across the western sky, we
saw a large sea turtle meandering past.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Another day we saw a school of gigantic,
rainbow colored parrotfish swim by.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There is no other word more fitting than paradise.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jlTpyEhDCX8/UIwTr5wXMOI/AAAAAAAAAuE/Z3MEF6fRjtY/s1600/_IGP1060-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jlTpyEhDCX8/UIwTr5wXMOI/AAAAAAAAAuE/Z3MEF6fRjtY/s400/_IGP1060-4.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
A critical component to my imagined paradise, is the food, and here it
was superb and plentiful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The nightly, changing,
5-course menu included many options, all of them creative and often celebrating
local freshly caught fish.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our seven
days of gourmandizing included delectible first courses, such as the simple and
elegant proscuitto wrapped asparagus, topped with onions, a little parmesan and
drizzled lightly with a bearnaise sauce.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The asparagus spears were crisp, fresh and complimented by the salinity
of the thinly shaved proscuitto.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> Other </span>memorable starters were the apple and brie parcel, served over a celery walnut
salad with a raspberry dressing and the savory cheesecake over field greens.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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Each soup was better than the last, and as the nights were perfectly
balmy, the type of temperature that is neither hot nor cold, I found myself repeatedly choosing the refreshing chilled options such as pear and champagne,
creamy cucumber and dill, carrot and mango, and vichyssoise.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I often think of soup as comforting, and
almost thrifty, as a way to use up extra ingredients, or nourishing and hearty
as in a vietnamese pho, yet these chilled cousins were exactly the opposite.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They
were chic and silky on the toungue, causing me to elegantly spoon small amounts
in a forward motion, the way my father taught me in manners lessons, as a young
child.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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The salads were vivid, ranging from sweet beets chopped and served with
creamy goat cheese to a bright caprese, with thick slices of tomato, fresh
buffalo mozzarella and marinated onions. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-opRx4PWtuHs/UIwTtn4N5LI/AAAAAAAAAuU/sPKt4FIDA0A/s1600/_IGP1077-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-opRx4PWtuHs/UIwTtn4N5LI/AAAAAAAAAuU/sPKt4FIDA0A/s400/_IGP1077-4.jpg" width="400" /></a>Over a half dozen new main course options each night, made choosing a
dish both exciting and challenging.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Highlights
included a tender roasted duck with sugar snap peas and whipped potatoes,
delicately smothered in a Madeira jus; Tandoori spiced mahi mahi was fresh and
spicy; tempura battered tiger shrimp were huge, sweet and juicy; the filet
topped with a red Windsor (a British, red wine marbled, creamy, cheddar) crust, was fork-cutting tender; the seafood medley was chock full of shellfish served
in a saffron cream base, with a puff pastry; an oven roasted pork loin was stuffed with brie and apricots served alongside bacon braised endive over a sherry jus; and the herb crusted rack of lamb
with asparagus and whipped potatoes was savory and decadent, finished with a
red current and thyme jus.<o:p></o:p></div>
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My mother has never met a dessert she didn't like and therefore made a
point of sampling the everchanging menu.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Many of her selections were ice cream based, beautiful to the eye, and
met her criteria of "sliding down easy" when we were already full to
our limits.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lIwJet3zwRk/UIwTuVG-yUI/AAAAAAAAAuc/5FwhZmrRVRM/s1600/_IGP1112-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lIwJet3zwRk/UIwTuVG-yUI/AAAAAAAAAuc/5FwhZmrRVRM/s400/_IGP1112-4.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
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Clearly the food was sumptuous, however adding to that was a friendly
staff who remembered our names every day, sought out the best spot on the
balcony for our meals, remembered our beverage preferences, and made us feel
like we were the only guests in the resort.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>That strong family feel permeated all of our experiences.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The first Monday of our trip, Tom and his
brother Larry hosted a <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>reception for the
guests where they served hors deouvres and the national cocktail, a Rum
Swizzle, which is a sweet concoction of Bermuda rum, pineapple, orange, and
lime juices and grendadine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While the
staff helped out, Tom and Larry were ever present with pitchers, ensuring our swizzles
did not run low.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At this event we met a
business man who frequented Bermuda for his job with one of the big insurance
agencies located there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Early on in his career he stayed at the big,
fancy resorts in Hamilton, but in recent years. he chose the Pompano because
the owners know his name, they wait for him at the front desk if his plane is
late, they drive him to the commuter ferry each morning and pick him up upon
his return, and when you travel frequently for business, these little family
style nuances are important. It doesn't hurt that he is a big snorkeler and the
Pompano is one of the few resorts on the island with a private beach, loaded
with stunning fish.<o:p></o:p></div>
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In addition to the great shopping and lazy days at the beach, my mother
and I also took advantage of the snorkeling, booking an excursion our last day on
the island.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She had previously snorkeled
with my father, who was an avid swimmer and she was determined for me to see
the underwater sights. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Eight other
guests joined us on the <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>trip organized through
the resort with Captain Demian Tucker of Exclusive Charters BDA.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a rough, but sunny day and Demian wisely
took us to a shallow location to start, where we could hug the coral caves
along the shore and see amazing fish, but also still touch bottom.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My mother does not swim and while she is in
amazing shape for a septegenarian, who managed to rock a pair of Mickey Mouse
arm swimmies, you can imagine my level of trepidation over supporting her, but
fortunately this was the perfect venue. We held hands, swimming along the coast,
pointing excitedly to the schools of colorful fish, in what turned out to be a
wonderful mother/daughter bonding experience.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Next, Demien took us 2 miles offshore, anchored the boat in twenty-one
feet of aquamarine water on the edge of a twelve foot reef.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The wind was up, the swells were rolling, and
there was not another boat in sight. I am a strong swimmer, or I was back in my
childhood, but like many of the folks on the boat, I was a bit hesitant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Wisely Demian did not let my mother join me,
but instead poured her Rum Swizzle and made her comfortable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I jumped into the swells and after a quick
initial second of panic, I realized it looked far rougher than it felt actually
swimming in it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I glided over the edge
of the reef, comforted by my own Darth Vader-like breathing, and was
immediately transported into another world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Here brain coral and fan coral came in all colors and provided habitat
for a diverse mix of multi-colored fish, most not fearful at all of our
presence.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was transfixed and as I reflect back, I
believe that is as close as I have come in recent years to a state of flow, a mental
state, attributed to Mihály Csíkszentmihályi, where essentially one is fully
immersed in an activity so focused and full of enjoyment that time passes
faster than you thought possible.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The combination of the silence of the
water, the beauty of the sea world, and the physical activity involved, temporarily
shut out any of my angst and filled me with exquisite joy, which after all, is the purpose of a vacation. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pKRfZMmIYJw/UIwTrLKyBII/AAAAAAAAAt8/kfJnS9jWXTU/s1600/_IGP1054-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pKRfZMmIYJw/UIwTrLKyBII/AAAAAAAAAt8/kfJnS9jWXTU/s400/_IGP1054-4.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
There is something shiveringly special about visiting this island of
paradise, home to so many of my parents' most pleasurable vacation memories,
with my mother at my side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I can now
envision the beaches where they sunned and swam.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I saw the bridge near St. Georges where they infamously
raced mopeds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I walked the streets of
Hamilton where they shopped together.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I saw
the restaurants where they dressed-up for formal dinners.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The grainy slides of my young, starry-eyed
parents, have come to life in a sharply romantic way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I also understand the magic of the island
that kept them returning year after year, and why no other tropical destination
ever held a candle to Bermuda.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My mother
and I have made another promise to each other, we have created our very own
tradition, one captured on Facebook instead of slides, yet also poignant, we will
together return in just a few years to celebrate her 75th birthday with rum
swizzles and mouth watering five-course meals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We hope Tom and Larry remember us!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OZxDW_9O6TA/UIwTs2tt8-I/AAAAAAAAAuM/O91NkybnyGo/s1600/_IGP1061-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="428" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OZxDW_9O6TA/UIwTs2tt8-I/AAAAAAAAAuM/O91NkybnyGo/s640/_IGP1061-4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-62155027095721385522012-09-09T14:08:00.001-05:002012-11-21T11:58:34.863-06:00Silo: Nashville, Tennessee<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r22B5WP_OQ0/UEzhisj9W3I/AAAAAAAAAsc/9aa2B968j2Y/s1600/_IGP2825.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r22B5WP_OQ0/UEzhisj9W3I/AAAAAAAAAsc/9aa2B968j2Y/s640/_IGP2825.jpg" width="424" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">F</span>loor-to-ceiling red cedar walls sound like something you would find
at a mountain retreat, not in the heart of the Germantown neighborhood of
Nashville. Yet at the new restaurant <a href="http://www.silotn.com/" target="_blank">Silo</a>, the wood is as modern as it is cozy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The details are simple, southern and
comfortable with a hint of a zen air. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
comes as no surprise that this beautifully designed eatery, where every last
detail, from the pottery inspired modern dishware, to the bullet hole ridden
lighting fixtures, is the brainchild of Paul Cercone, a trained artist, and Chef
Clay Greenberg, former executive chef of Virago, a high-end sushi restaurant in
Nashville.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The tables were crafted by a
local Amish woodworker.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The bar is made
of reclaimed barn wood and those beautiful, funky lights, actually provide a
warm wash of light at each table, perfect for reading the menu, but yet the
lighting seems low and romantic when you gaze around the restaurant.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w9vYYBFbXC0/UEzhh06_t8I/AAAAAAAAAsM/1AAU3qVWqu4/s1600/_IGP2817.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w9vYYBFbXC0/UEzhh06_t8I/AAAAAAAAAsM/1AAU3qVWqu4/s400/_IGP2817.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
While the ambiance certainly set a welcoming tone, it was the menu of classic southern comfort food, with a creative twist that made us excited. We started with the deviled eggs 3 ways, a simple yet refined version of grandma's, feeling elegant, served on a stark white plate. The whipped yolks were creamy, with a hint of mustard. Each egg was topped with a different treat. The first was embellished with crispy and salty fried chicken skin, the best part of the bird. The second was garnished with a small thick-cut bite of bacon, and the third was topped with a pickled cherry tomato and a jalapeno. Somehow we managed to split each one, thankfully, as I would have fought Mark for the chicken skin.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UdBpj2zg9oQ/UEzhiTypWDI/AAAAAAAAAsU/3JY6rqdhufk/s1600/_IGP2821.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UdBpj2zg9oQ/UEzhiTypWDI/AAAAAAAAAsU/3JY6rqdhufk/s400/_IGP2821.jpg" width="265" /></a>Next arrived the charcuterie plate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The pork belly rillettes, topped with a caramelized onion jelly, was
salty and spreadable with just enough texture and tasting deliciously of pig.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fried delicately in a cornmeal crust, the
trotters were mild and tender. I promise you, feet have never tasted so good.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Silky, buttery and sweet, the chicken liver
mousse was outlandishly perfect, smeared on toasted bread.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If I lived closer, I would order this by the
pint and spread it on everything. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The crisp
pickled green beans and baby tomatoes were tangy, cutting the richness of the
force meat.</div>
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I could easily have left happy after those two starters, but our main
dishes arrived with equal splendor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
chicken confit was bursting with deep flavor. The meat was tender, the skin
salty and crunchy, clearly not the boring, safe chicken dish on the menu, but
instead it was something akin to chicken nirvana.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Add to that, chewy black pepper dumplins and a
sweet onion and butternut puree, and you have the most upscale, home-cooked
meal I have ever experienced.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
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The pork belly was generous in size and delivered a satiating pork
experience. The top was crispy, and the interior, when shredded into the
country ham and pea broth, was the epitome of comfort food.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Still a little al dente, the field peas added
a light, fresh note to the dish. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W-zr4nEu-B0/UEzhjntTW2I/AAAAAAAAAss/n-yuBXd45sA/s1600/_IGP2840.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W-zr4nEu-B0/UEzhjntTW2I/AAAAAAAAAss/n-yuBXd45sA/s400/_IGP2840.jpg" width="265" /></a>There are things I miss about New England: family, friends, steamer
clams, and our cheese "girl" Maggie.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Many Saturdays in Dover, New Hampshire, we would pop in, and ask her to
surprise us with three unusual cheeses.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I learned that there is no cheese too stinky or drippy for me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In fact my favorite was the one served with a
spoon, preferably outside, due to the smell.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Mark leaned towards the hard aged variety. Therefore, when shown the
dessert menu, while the red wine chocolate cake sounded wonderful, the local cheese
plate, won our hearts. The Ellington goat was light with a hint of tang, the
Sweetgrass was soft and bloomy and the Coppinger from Sequatchie Cove Farm had a nice hard, nutty aged
texture.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All were enhanced by the sweet
fruity flavor of a dollop of peach preserves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>While I still say "pee-can" like a yankee, and hoard bags of
the nuts because they were expensive back in New England, I am beginning to
loosen up and enjoy this local treat with more abandon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After my trip to Silo, I am convinced that these
roasted gems, tossed in sweet sorghum syrup, and served alongside native cheeses,
need to be shipped back up to Maggie.</div>
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As I write this, I am craving a return to Silo. I am out-of-my-mind,
dying to try the hot chicken.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I didn't
want to leave.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I could talk to Paul, the
owner, all night about his art school in Boston or his experiences hiking in
the German Alps and our shared love of hiking the New Hampshire White Mountains,
or even the Montessori school philosophy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Silo is warm, yet not fussy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
is upscale, yet not stuffy. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It defies
cliches and after only twelve days open, I would have sworn they had been in
the neighborhood for years. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I know
nothing of opening restaurants, but I do know that Silo brings southern comfort
food to sublime heights at a refreshingly affordable price.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/47/1697717/restaurant/North-Nashville/Silo-Nashville"><img alt="Silo on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1697717/biglogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 34px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-39711854480386917162012-09-02T19:42:00.000-05:002012-11-21T11:58:34.848-06:00Holland House Bar & Refuge: Nashville, TN<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Holland House Bar & Refuge</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ward 8</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">A</span>s we walked up the flower lined steps to the Holland House Bar and Refuge, in the east Nashville neighborhood, I could see Jeremiah, the bartender, waving and smiling from inside the big front windows. This normally would make me happy, to feel welcomed and known, but on this day it was particularly warming because we had patronized the rustically elegant neighborhood joint only once before, on the previous night. From the moment we entered the HHB&R, I felt a sense of comfort; a square bar sits center stage in the restaurant under soaring, exposed wood ceilings and the soft glow of chandeliers. The suspender clad bartenders possessed an easy going air, serving up intricate craft cocktails to a full bar, yet not rushing or looking harried, instead taking time to converse genuinely and at length with the patrons. <br />
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Admittedly, part of our newly found nostalgia could also have been enhanced by the $5 cocktail happy hour menu. While we are not cheap, and would happily have paid triple that for a truly wonderful libation, somehow the sense of landing a deal, heightened the experience even further. While the full cocktail menu consisting of multiple pages of concoctions was still available, the 10 listed on the happy hour menu were plenty diverse. On our first visit, as a whiskey loyalist, I opted for the Ward 8 -- composed of rye whiskey, lemon juice and grenadine and served up. This drink was more tart than a Manhattan or old fashioned, yet in a very balanced, palate pleasing way. In researching the history, I lovingly found that the recipe originated in Boston, Massachusetts, just like me, and would have been served with a little paper Massachusetts flag garnish. Instead of a flag, mine came with a sidecar. While I am tempted to hunt down miniature Massachusetts flags, now that I am south of the Mason Dixon line, I will happily accept a diminutive carafe of the extra cocktail to top off my glass.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pimms Cup</td></tr>
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Mark ordered a Pimms cup, a light, refreshing summer highball, hailing from Britain. Named for the gin based citrus and herbal liqueur, Pimms no. 1 cup, the cocktail also includes lemon juice and in this case cucumber soda. Fittingly garnished with a cucumber, this is by far the best version we have every tried. A bowlful of truffled popcorn was the perfect accompaniment, as we relaxed and peppered Jeremiah and the other guests with questions about great local eateries. <br />
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Clearly when deciding our cocktail destination the following night, it was no surprise that we were drawn back into the HHB&R fold. After catching-up on the day’s events with our new found friend, Jeremiah, he whipped us up an Americano and a Chelsea Sidecar. He sold the Americano perfectly, when he described it as the ideal way to slide into your night. Not a drink for those with something to prove, he extolled, as it is void of a base liquor and instead made up of Campari, which is a fruity herbal aperitif, as well as noilly prat, a sweet vermouth, and lastly a bitter lemon phosphate soda. Sweet and ascrebic notes blended easily and when served in a highball over ice, the red punch color made for a stunning glass. The Chelsea Sidecar was also a fresh summer selection. Gin was shaken with lemon juice, angostura bitters, and a lavender simple syrup, served up in a sugar rimmed glass with a sidecar. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pickled Produce & Chelsea Sidecar</td></tr>
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The second night we enjoyed a little taste of their farm-to-table menu with the pickle and hummus plate. A crunchy toasted baguette smothered with creamy, garlic hummus and topped with crunchy pickled okra, could easily top my bar snack list, and add carefully crafted, summer cocktails and you now have happy hour perfection. <br />
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While this aptly named refuge could easily be described as upscale, it is refreshlingly unpretentious. In fact during a lull in activity, when we inquired about the dozen different amaro varieties, the bartenders spent time explaining the history of the herbacious digestif. They pointed out the various flavors and nuances, based on the Italian region of their origin. After hearing Mark complain about Cynar, an artichoke flavored amaro stocked in his childhood Italian home, they even poured Mark a small taste and encouraged him to try it as an adult. Surprisingly tasty, they shared simple recipes with us, mentioning that while they serve fancy, classic cocktails at work that can include up to a dozen ingredients, when they are home, they typically lean towards easier concoctions, like a high-end sweet vermouth on the rocks or amaro and dry cucumber soda.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9JFuTng8dLw/UEP4s9yDTKI/AAAAAAAAAn8/cIt0tglbpuU/s1600/_IGP2803.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9JFuTng8dLw/UEP4s9yDTKI/AAAAAAAAAn8/cIt0tglbpuU/s400/_IGP2803.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Americano</td></tr>
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While I know I will miss the zealously made drinks, as usual, I am reminded that it was the people who clearly made the experience. The guys next to us who turned us onto the Food Truck Awards in Centennial park, the yoga instructor who texted us about a free class the next day, the adorable, witty couple and their parents whom reminded us of dear friends back home, and of course authentically charming Jeremiah and the other bartenders, all bring me shamelessly close to quoting the Cheers theme song. To save you, I will simply leave you one thought - happy hour at the HHB&R is perhaps the best kept secret on this planet, but please do not go, as I would hate to not have a seat the next time I visit. <br />
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<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/47/1516606/restaurant/East-Nashville/Holland-House-Nashville"><img alt="Holland House on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1516606/biglogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 34px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-29110655037042379852012-07-03T10:37:00.000-05:002012-11-21T11:58:34.840-06:00Low Country Love at Husk: Charleston, South Carolina<div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L5z-LLNq_VQ/T_Chwiv67yI/AAAAAAAAAiM/5dMgUBEZfyY/s1600/_IGP1731.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L5z-LLNq_VQ/T_Chwiv67yI/AAAAAAAAAiM/5dMgUBEZfyY/s640/_IGP1731.jpg" width="424" /></a></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">I</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">t wouldn't be right to visit Charleston, South Carolina without feasting at one of Chef Sean Brock's acclaimed eateries. Set in a restored colonial house in the downtown historic district, <a href="http://huskrestaurant.com/">Husk's</a> facade exudes southern grace and deceptively houses an elegantly modern interior.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">We arrived early to patronize
the adjacent, renovated barn-cum-bar, serving custom twists on the
classics as well as modern innovations. We scored a comfortable couch
in the upstairs lounge and, in no time at all, selected our poisons.
Clearly we had to order the cocktail called "Everything but the Goat".
Made with Gordon's gin, strawberry gastrique, arugula and pecan bitters,
this pretty drink was a summer salad in a glass. Any shred of
refinery flew out the window when we caved to the irresistible need to
awkwardly retrieve the strawberries and spicy arugula from the glass.
Tart and strong, the "Copperhead", consisted of Rittenhouse rye,
absinthe, wormwood bitters and fresh lemon juice. Served in a recycled
wine bottle glass, the drink felt good in my hands where it lingered as a
slow sipping pleasure.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Uy7zFeyDpC4/T_Cb5njFGkI/AAAAAAAAAhM/Os7PFZ8JqBs/s1600/_IGP1745.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Uy7zFeyDpC4/T_Cb5njFGkI/AAAAAAAAAhM/Os7PFZ8JqBs/s320/_IGP1745.jpg" width="212" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ojw2ED7bL20/T_Cb-IdP3gI/AAAAAAAAAhU/zeV6qNADUlE/s1600/_IGP1746.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ojw2ED7bL20/T_Cb-IdP3gI/AAAAAAAAAhU/zeV6qNADUlE/s400/_IGP1746.jpg" width="265" /></a></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">After lounging over our cocktails, we strolled next door for our next sensory adventure. Chef Brock is known for developing strong relationships with local farmers and fishmongers, as evidenced by his daily changing menu. The eye-candy winner of the night was the Alabama blue crab salad. Big meaty lumps of crab were mixed with sweet red peppers and mint and served over a tangy cotton candy pink, strawberry buttermilk sauce. While eating this masterpiece, and clearly feeling excitable from my earlier cocktail, I found myself getting heady and deep at the mere joy of living on a planet where nature provides such astounding delicacies as crab and the edible, intricate and beautiful nasturtiums that garnished the salad.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VzyMhVHJu1s/T_CcAfzANqI/AAAAAAAAAhc/7Hi1L-DffGI/s1600/_IGP1748.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VzyMhVHJu1s/T_CcAfzANqI/AAAAAAAAAhc/7Hi1L-DffGI/s400/_IGP1748.jpg" width="265" /></span></a></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The trend of adding an egg to burgers, sandwiches and soups, is one I hope is here to stay. In the deeply colorful English pea soup, a softly poached farm egg added silky texture, while the Virginia guanciale ham provided a salty chew. Hints of Meyer lemon brightened the many layers of flavor and lastly, the soup was topped with shredded, house-made sheep milk manchego and a dollop of creme fraiche. While the soup included classic southern ingredients such as pork, egg and cheese, this light, silky interpretation is a perfect example of what so many across the country are loving about fresh, modern, southern cuisine.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8MfCnC-6osA/T_CcGVjyhOI/AAAAAAAAAh0/NLyRuDTGyg0/s1600/_IGP1758.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8MfCnC-6osA/T_CcGVjyhOI/AAAAAAAAAh0/NLyRuDTGyg0/s400/_IGP1758.jpg" width="265" /></span></a></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">We continued our guttural praises with the main course. Two generous fillets of mild, South Carolina Rudderfish were served over sweet peas and charred turnips, with a Meyer lemon herbed broth. This dish was clean and earthy, everything tasting as if it had been picked fresh from the farm or sea that morning.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">North Carolina Guinea hen terrine is not a dish you see everyday on menus. Dark meat was ground, seasoned and wrapped in the white meat, pressed for hours until set and served warm with roasted baby carrots, spring onions and rainbow chard over a rich mushroom broth, in a beautiful wooden bowl. Classic meets modern in this dish; think Sean Brock sporting his colorful and rebellious tattooed arm sleeves communing with Julia Child, clad in her apron and sensible shoes.
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Our server irresistibly sold the deserts, not that lemon pie in a jar took much arm twisting. Pretty as a picture, the small mason jar was layered with a sweet and tart Meyer lemon curd, thick, espresso ganache, some sort of a cookie crust and topped with a marshmallow meringue. The garnish of edible parsley flowers added to the cute factor and was yet another disparate flavor that completely worked.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Husk is just one of the many reasons we look forward to returning to Charleston. We fell in love with the city, and fortunately there is so much more we need to explore, like the famed beautiful beaches, historic forts, and sister city, Savannah. Rest assured I am already planning a return trip to the low country...the pull is undeniable.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/61/1560252/restaurant/Peninsular-Charleston/Husk-Charleston"><img alt="Husk on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1560252/biglogo.gif" style="border: medium none; height: 34px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a></span></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-67176522557493380162012-06-10T16:56:00.000-05:002012-11-21T11:58:34.875-06:00Folly Beach, SC: Bowens Island Oysters<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SGuukB7ifvg/T8uD5W0ozWI/AAAAAAAAAf0/gpmjJrn3caM/s1600/_IGP1791.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SGuukB7ifvg/T8uD5W0ozWI/AAAAAAAAAf0/gpmjJrn3caM/s640/_IGP1791.jpg" width="424" /></a></div>
I am an unabashed oyster floozy. Raw, fried, grilled, served in stew, Rockefeller, po' boy, oyster dressing...I am crazy about all preparations and my only complaint is that I am usually left wanting more. A dozen raw oysters are simply a tease. Admittedly, I planned my latest vacation to the Charleston area after hearing from friend and food documentarian, Joe York, about an all-you-can-eat oyster shack on Folly Beach just outside Charleston. In some rare, fortuitous instance of karma, we visited <a href="http://www.bowensislandrestaurant.com/" target="_blank">Bowens Island Restaurant</a>, situated out on a stunning marsh coastline, on what we would soon learn was the very last day of oyster season.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vxHA4f03KQw/T8uEFBEHehI/AAAAAAAAAgE/kLrhKQEflBg/s1600/_IGP1801.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vxHA4f03KQw/T8uEFBEHehI/AAAAAAAAAgE/kLrhKQEflBg/s400/_IGP1801.jpg" width="265" /></a>Piles of empty oyster shells line the parking lot next to the rustic fish camp on stilts. After securing a scenic table on the deck, we joined the line at the no-frills bar, to order our catch. Barely hiding my enthusiasm, I ordered the all-you-can eat oyster plate, only to have my dreams dashed. It was then that I was informed it was the last day of oyster season and because of that, they were only offering single servings. In a disgruntled daze, I was handed a well loved dish towel and knife and told to take a ticket downstairs to the oyster guy. <br />
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Downstairs meant descending to ground level, below the shack, where, in an odd corner of the open basement, I found the oyster dude. Reminding me of a San Francisco bike courier with his gruff, yet hipster vibe, he took my number, before dumping a huge bag of oysters onto a metal table to wash and select for the steamer cage. He yelled "four and a half minutes" over his shoulder, in my direction, before walking away to check his iPhone. Weirdly, despite the grim location and the coarse service, or perhaps because of it, my spirits were rising rapidly. Moments later a heaping bushel of oysters were dumped onto a cafeteria tray and I was sent, elated, on my way.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HeiHYNbfEXw/T8uEQ6jYX3I/AAAAAAAAAgc/hzlS15lhHKA/s1600/_IGP1785.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HeiHYNbfEXw/T8uEQ6jYX3I/AAAAAAAAAgc/hzlS15lhHKA/s640/_IGP1785.jpg" width="424" /></a>After navigating two flights of steps, with my hands occupied by the heavily laden tray and a sundress blowing suggestively in the strong sea breeze, the real fun began. No side dishes or accouterments were necessary. When easily pried open, these oysters, bathed plumply in briny sea water, proved naked is better. Similar to raw, but with a little more texture, these steamed oysters were juicy and tender. Fresh off the boat, the clusters included large, meaty shells, baby seedlings, and all sizes in between, sometimes eight or more per cluster, many of which were camouflaged by the rocky exteriors, adding a scavenger hunt feel to the process. Two hours later, fingers shrivelled from the sea water and a few minor shell scrapes, despite the towel, I finished the last mollusk, completely satiated. <br />
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Others may look forward to SEC football or the World Series, but for me, I will take two hours of wrestling oysters, any day. Thank heavens I didn't order the bottomless tray, although I am not saying I won't in the future!<br />
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<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/61/660134/restaurant/Folly-Beach/Bowens-Island-Restaurant-Charleston"><img alt="Bowen's Island Restaurant on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/660134/minilogo.gif" style="border:none;padding:0px;width:104px;height:15px" /></a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com3Folly Beach, SC, USA32.6551798 -79.940367332.6017048 -80.0193313 32.7086548 -79.8614033tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-34436687875970017252012-06-02T12:38:00.001-05:002012-11-21T11:58:34.845-06:00Charleston, SC: Two Boroughs Larder<div style="text-align: right;">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">I</span>t took mere minutes to fall in love with the city of Charleston, South Carolina. The colonial houses, stone streets, scenic bay, bird-filled marshes all tugged at my heart strings, as they were reminiscent of my childhood on the New England coast. Coupled with the nostalgia were all things southern that make me incredibly happy: palm trees, moss draped gardens, southern hospitality, boutiques filled with colorful, classy attire, soulful southern chefs, and a dewy humidity that is strangely addictive.<br />
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In typical fashion, our vacation rituals in this charming city quickly evolved into long walks, prohibition era cocktails and scintillatingly good food. After a day spent sleuthing and photographing the city, it was exciting to dress up and start the night in the cool vibe of The Gin Joint, where the motto was, "Drink Proper. Speak Easy." Sultry booths, funky lighting and cabinets made of urban chain link, set the tone for classic Americana libations.<br />
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The smoked maple old fashioned, made with bonded rye whiskey and black walnut bitters, served with one crystal clear sphere of ice, was sexy looking, smooth, and smoky on the pallet. The hint of black walnut bitters added what reminded me of a pecan pie undertone and a spicy bouquet on the nose. While the old fashioned oozed of 1950's seduction and made you want to settle deeper into the booth, the Jalisco Pharmacy was fresh and exciting, almost encouraging you to call all of your friends for a deck party. Tequila mixed with lemon, ginger, honey and mezcal, created a nuanced and refreshing drink, that will no doubt become a summer classic.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Gin Joint</td></tr>
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Since I mentioned rituals, I will confess that we started a second night at The Gin Joint, that time trying the Tequila old fashioned and a bartender's choice. The old fashioned was made with smoky anejo tequila, agave nectar, and grapefruit bitters, which was a delightfully light version of the more traditional whiskey recipe. The bartender's choice included rye whiskey, averno amero (a spirit based herbal digestive), and angostura bitters. It was deep and spicy, served elegantly straight-up in an old fashioned champagne glass.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pickled Shrimp</td></tr>
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Fortunately the bartender poured generously and therefore after one drink, we pried ourselves out of the place where we now considered ourselves vacation regulars, and took to the streets for a walk across town to our new favorite dinner spot, Two Boroughs Larder. Located on the outskirts of The College of Charleston, tucked into a little nondescript side street, the restaurant has a comfortableness about it that makes you feel like you could eat there every night, and yet it still remains a treat. Bare-bulb chandeliers, an open kitchen, pantry shelving, and a farm-to-table, daily-changing menu, all lend a European, neighborhood air that is completely hip, while not trying hard at all.<br />
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Ravenous after a long walk, we wasted no time ordering the pickled shrimp salad as a starter. Served in an unassuming jelly jar, it was one of the most flavorful, fresh dishes I have ever consumed; cold, lightly pickled shrimp were layered generously with, chick peas, cippolini onions, fennel, and colorful baby sorrel sprouts all smothered in a tangy dressing making for a crunchy forkful and a fight for the last bite.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lamb Belly</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brussels Sprouts</td></tr>
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Bordeaux was served in a juice glass and arrived as a perfect accompaniment to the cumin scented lamb belly. Juicy chocolate cherry tomatoes, pine nuts and salty roasted cerignola olives, balanced the rich and tender lamb. Next arrived the crispy veal sweetbreads, glazed with a caper, shallot and chili sauce and tossed with roasted cauliflower, they possessed the perfect chewy, satisfying texture. The side of chili and lime Brussels sprouts were roasted to caramelized perfection. Equally satisfying was the dish of sweet roasted beets, dusted lightly with grated ricotta salata cheese.<br />
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For dessert we could not resist the rice pudding. Served warm, topped with crunchy oats, it was loose, barely sweet, a little al dente and seemed completely made to order just for us.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Daily Salad</td></tr>
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So enthralled were we with this local haunt, that the next night, when we were craving a more casual dinner, we found ourselves drawn back to Two Boroughs, despite the seemingly infinite number of options in this food rich city. This time we started with the daily salad, consisting of chilled, crisp yellow wax beans, Italian flat beans, parsley, paper thin slices of baby radish and creamy buffalo mozzarella all tossed in a champagne vinaigrette with agrumato olive oil. Made with quality ingredients, this dish proves that simple is often better.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Butcher's Sandwich</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-keKK-3HDHQ4/T8pJQgEU6vI/AAAAAAAAAes/BC3TUIVKT0Y/s1600/_IGP1980.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-keKK-3HDHQ4/T8pJQgEU6vI/AAAAAAAAAes/BC3TUIVKT0Y/s400/_IGP1980.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crispy New Potatoes</td></tr>
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The butcher's sandwich was the perfect cross between an Italian sub and a Vietnamese bahn mi, as it included salami toscana, prosciutto, pecorino cheese and nduja, a homemade spreadable salami, with pickled carrots, radish and herbs, all on a baguette. The side of crispy new potatoes with shredded brisket and shallot confit, were outlandishly divine and a salacious treat next to the healthier chili braised kale with white anchovies.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bowl-O-Noodle</td></tr>
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Finally, the dish that without question won the "best of the vacation week," and at a bargain price, was the bowl-o-noodle. Shredded, crispy Keegan Filion pork, a soft boiled farm egg, spicy and crunchy kimchi, sesame greens, and pickled wild mushrooms, nestled on noodles in a comforting pork broth. The egg, when split open, infused the broth with yolk making a thick, rich texture that coated the tongue. Each bite was different from the last, the flavors layering and the textures dancing.<br />
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While we should have ended on that note of nirvana, I am glad we pushed through to experience the chocolate budino. A rich chocolate cold pot de creme type base was covered in chopped pistachios, sea salt and smothered in a layer of olive oil. The rather plain look of the dish belied the brilliant flavor and texture; sweet and salt played off one another while the pistachios crunched and the olive oil coated everything on the palette giving it a feeling of elegance. This dish is everything you love about chocolate covered pretzels, but dressed up in a ball gown. Mercy!<br />
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There was not near enough time to explore all that Charleston has to offer. While I eagerly look forward to future trips to the city and new rituals, I will work on perfecting my version of the Jalisco Pharmacy back at home this summer.<BR>
<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/61/1592864/restaurant/Peninsular-Charleston/Two-Boroughs-Larder-Charleston"><img alt="Two Boroughs Larder on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1592864/minilogo.gif" style="border:none;padding:0px;width:104px;height:15px" /></a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-41636477666314397892012-04-24T21:00:00.000-05:002012-11-21T11:58:34.850-06:00The Story Behind the Dish: Flyte, Nashville, TN<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">I </span>am a sucker for a story, and I realized on a recent trip to Nashville
that knowing the story behind my food seemed to make it more special. Mark and I returned to an old
favorite, a local, independently
owned restaurant in the 8th Avenue South neighborhood, called Flyte. I once read that after three or four
bites of the same flavor, our taste buds tire and no longer appreciate nuances. Flyte is the perfect antidote to this
conundrum as they serve many of their dishes and wines in small tastings of
three, called flights, a concept that originated in wine tasting where it
allowed one to compare wines side-by-side, more objectively. Their wine list is
extensive and brilliantly categorizes the wine by old and new vine with
detailed descriptions like, "crushed ripe black cherry and blackberry
fruit, evolving into bittersweet chocolate on the finish. Full bodied and
chewy." </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">After ordering, we received a lushious carrot custard as an amuse
bouche from the chef, Matthew Lackey.
The thick, rich custard was served in bite size rectangles and had a
deep, sweet carrot flavor that awakened our senses for the plates yet to
come. </span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ITSY6J3N4Ec/T5WWeHrQ92I/AAAAAAAAAcw/ABa9GDB2acI/s1600/_IGP0596-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ITSY6J3N4Ec/T5WWeHrQ92I/AAAAAAAAAcw/ABa9GDB2acI/s640/_IGP0596-2.jpg" width="424" /></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">As it was a quiet night, Chef Lackey visited our table to chat. I recognize that all chefs don't want to
be celebrities, but as a patron I cannot help but feel more connected to my
food when the chef makes an appearance on the floor, and this was the first of
many visits throughout the night from this twenty-five year old, enthusiastic chef,
sporting wild hipster hair and an effervescent personality. He shared his inspiration behind our
first appetizer. On his drive from Charleston, South
Carolina where he learned his trade under the tutelege of reknown James Beard
winning Chef Sean Brock, to Nashville for his first executive chef opportunity
at Flyte, he realized he was in the region of a local dairy, whose products he adored. He stopped a passing tractor, asking
for directions to the dairy, only to find out the driver was the dairy farmer himself. Typical of a small town story set in
the south, the farmer invited him to dine on his front porch, where he served
fresh cream and cheeses with beets from the garden. As Chef Lackey left the farm to drive west, he thought about
the flavors he just enjoyed and how he might combine them with his Charleston
roots. It was then that his peekytoe crab appetizer was born.
Tender crab tasting lightly of the sea, was served on a bed of golden
sliced beets, with baby pea shoots, and topped with burrata cheese. The homemade burrata, which is a fresh mozzarella
filled with cream, added a luxuriousness to the crisp flavors of the vegetables
and the brininess of the crab.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Our next appetizer was a beautiful marinated pork belly, served over turnips
that were cut into paper thin noodles, all resting in a Benton's bacon kombu
broth, with rapinito and oyster mushrooms. The pork was sumptuous, the turnips crunchy and the broth amazingly
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Seeing as we were at Flyte we had to try the soup and salad flights. The carrot ginger soup was sweet and
creamy, the anasazi bean was savory, salty and warming, and lastly, the one
that rocked my world, the beautiful flavor of roasted turnip was brought out in
a silky, cheesy, bowl-licking third soup.
The salad flight inlcuded an arugula salad with goat chevre, candied hazelnuts
and a light, perfectly salted walnut oil dressing. Next was a red beet salad, which showcased the crisp, sweet
vegetable along with pears, arugula and a sherry vinaigrette. Finally there was
a malt salad served with apples, spring greens, feta and toasted pecans. </span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ihIkREWVZX8/T5WWb0ADLgI/AAAAAAAAAcQ/xGYVMfof3Us/s1600/_IGP0587-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ihIkREWVZX8/T5WWb0ADLgI/AAAAAAAAAcQ/xGYVMfof3Us/s400/_IGP0587-2.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="261" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">As a main dish, the Spanish turbo, cooked immaculately, was meaty and light in flavor, served over celeriac, baby carrots, and cippolini onions. The celeriac, a personal favorite, was divine. It had enough texture, yet melted in your mouth with that deep celery root flavor. The confit Sonoma duck leg, was falling off the bone over brussel sprouts, braised cabbage and a tangy mustard sauce. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Clearly there was no chance of dessert after the afore described spread, however when our server brought the check along with hommade caramels, there was no stopping me. What should have been a simple little treat, was actually quite exquisite. Chewy, and buttery, the sweetness was offset by a hint of salt, leaving me wanting a whole box of caramels! </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Upon reflection, I realized that our dinner was much more of an event, than a meal. From the smallest dishes like the carrot custard and the caramel to the peekie toe crab, pork belly and duck, everything was executed exactingly. The star of the show, was Chef Lackey who took joy in explaining the inspiration for his dishes, talking about the sourcing for his products, including the relationships he had developed with local farmers, and even sharing his plans for a new city garden at the restaurant. His passion is contagious, and evident in every dish served. </span></div>
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<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/br/211/3918/Mississippi/eatsouthern.html"><img alt="eatsouthern Mississippi restaurants" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/rank/211/3918.gif" style="border: none; height: 48px; padding: 0px; width: 134px;" /></a>
<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/47/510619/restaurant/The-Gulch/Flyte-World-Dining-Wine-Nashville"><img alt="Flyte World Dining & Wine on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/510619/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-79276361020571682722012-03-19T21:38:00.001-05:002012-11-21T11:58:34.885-06:00The Patterson House, Nashville, TN: Cocktail Divinity<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qkRqauFbOtg/T2e-TSqaykI/AAAAAAAAAao/9GmRffx7_eU/s1600/_IGP0576-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qkRqauFbOtg/T2e-TSqaykI/AAAAAAAAAao/9GmRffx7_eU/s640/_IGP0576-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
Spring fever hit me hard this year. Unseasonably warm temperatures and an eerie quiet at work, due to spring break, had me itching for excitement. An especially interesting episode of American Pickers, highlighting their new store, sealed the deal - it was time for a road trip to Nashville. The drive north was everything you romanticize spring to be, the hills swathed in color from the southern red buds, with their bright, almost fluorescent fuschia limbs, green fields dotted with cattle, and the occasional tractor holding up traffic. We planned our trip so that we would arrive in Nashville in time for a pre-dinner cocktail at <a href="http://www.thepattersonnashville.com/" target="_blank">The Patterson House</a>. On a previous trip, I attempted imbibe there, but ignorantly arrived after dinner on a Saturday only to learn the wait was over two hours. Fool me once, shame on me... This time, I took a lesson from my parents and arrived at the nondescript, sign-less, corner building, at the early bird hour of 6:30 PM where along with other seasoned patrons, we had a choice of bar or booth. Upon entering we were greeted and whisked through lush velvet curtains to a chandelier lit, majestic room. This is the stuff of which fairytale dates are made. Romantic booths lined the walls. An old school, rich dark wooden bar filled the center of the room, and one wall at the back was lined with library shelves of books. At least 5 bartenders moved gracefully behind the bar, confidently managing their stations of liquors, tincture bottles of homemade bitters, and bowls and bowls of fresh fruit, all ready for the onslaught of the evening. <br />
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The cocktail menu was broken up by categories - whiskey, vodka, tequila, gin, etc. and each category offered approximately six signature cocktails. Being a whiskey girl, I opted for their signature Manhattan. Our bartender, dressed in a hip, vest and tie, clearly took pride in his work as any artist does. He measured the liquor out precisely starting with Jim Beam rye whiskey. He added Carpano Antica (sweet herbal vermouth), Corsair Spiced Rum and eye droplets of homemade angostura bitters. He stirred and tested the drink while adjusting the flavors. Finally, when he had it just right, and only after chilling with more ice, did he stir with a flourish. Poured into an antique champagne glass with a sidecar, he spritzed the drink with a citrus peel and then garnished it with a dark, intensely flavored, sweet cherry. Smooth, deep flavors of whiskey with hints of aromatic bitters and light lasting flavor of vanilla, filled my mouth. Instantly I was transported to a fictional era, a time that was elegant, decadent and a little dangerous.<br />
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Mark ordered a perfect spring drink: tres agaves reposado, lime, green chartreuse (a liquor that is traditionally comprised of 130 herbal extracts), house falernum (a syrup used in cocktails to imbue flavors of almond, ginger and/or cloves, and lime, and sometimes vanilla or allspice) with a single ice sphere and orange peel. Served in an old fashioned glass, atop a perfectly round, gigantic ice cube, the sweet and tangy concoction was reminiscent of a margarita, but in a rich and sophisticated way. Citrus flavors gently played against the tequila; herbal notes from the chartreuse and falernum cut the flavors and added a layer of intricacy and depth, which showcased the mastery of our artistic bartender and the house-made mixers. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fyfSakv4PO0/T2e-TzktHXI/AAAAAAAAAaw/ozS2-qlFHHI/s1600/_IGP0577-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fyfSakv4PO0/T2e-TzktHXI/AAAAAAAAAaw/ozS2-qlFHHI/s400/_IGP0577-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
While the Patterson House is known for its cocktails, we found the warmed olives to be meaty and satisfying, ever so slightly hinting of an herb infused oil. <br />
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I hated to leave the cocoon of date paradise, but our dinner reservation crept upon us. I parted the velvet curtains and returned to the beautiful spring evening, with the elated and even giddy confidence, that I had discovered cocktail divinity.<br />
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<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/47/1440324/restaurant/Belmont-Vanderbilt/Patterson-House-Nashville"><img alt="Patterson House on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1440324/biglogo.gif" style="border:none;width:104px;height:34px" /></a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-59816315967811717482012-02-08T06:56:00.006-06:002012-11-21T11:58:34.861-06:00Restaurant Iris, Memphis, TN<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3A7fZICyQvs/Ty64ux2OI4I/AAAAAAAAAZE/PBsQGZXuBoI/s1600/_IGP9608-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3A7fZICyQvs/Ty64ux2OI4I/AAAAAAAAAZE/PBsQGZXuBoI/s640/_IGP9608-3.jpg" width="424" /></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">I </span>am a fan of eating in the bar. Perhaps this draw stems from my high school and college years spent waiting tables, where the bar was the staff’s social epicenter of the restaurant or maybe it was my early career years in sales where eating alone at a bar was a way to feel less alone. Regardless of the origin, one of my favorite bar tables is at <a href="http://www.restaurantiris.com/" target="_blank">Restaurant Iris </a>in Memphis, Tennessee. Set in a house in midtown, the bar at Iris is a cozy nook off the entrance, encased in plush floor-to-ceiling curtains, bathed in alabaster candles, where you can watch everyone come and go, while enjoying the full menu and top-notch service. I would probably also love a table at Iris, but seeing as you have to book weeks in advance, I will leave that to all those who actually plan in life. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Dinner and a show in the city - what girl would say no? While I was very excited to see the world's most renown jazz organist, Joey DeFrancesco at the <a href="http://www.gpacweb.com/" target="_blank">Germantown Performing Arts Center</a>, the deal was sweetened further by a promise of dinner at my favorite restaurant in Memphis, whose chef this very night was off winning an award cooking up heritage pork raised by my friend Brad at <a href="http://www.oldthymefarms.com/" target="_blank">Ole Thyme Farms</a> in Oxford. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U7Nqpfxzk0Y/TzHX-aAgrkI/AAAAAAAAAaM/nrTH6Chd9WU/s1600/_IGP9612-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U7Nqpfxzk0Y/TzHX-aAgrkI/AAAAAAAAAaM/nrTH6Chd9WU/s320/_IGP9612-3.jpg" width="212" /></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">At Restaurant Iris on this rainy night, I fine-tuned a theory that will require countless hours of research to ensure validity -- that is, I hypothesize that restaurants that offer Sazeracs on their cocktail menus are more likely to serve memorably decadent food. The Sazerac, a classic New Orleans cocktail made at Iris with pernod, bitters, rye, simple syrup, and lemon twist, was served in a wine glass on the rocks and hit all the right herbal notes with a sweet, yet strong finish. The Pimms cup cocktail, a historic drink hailing from London, featuring Pimms No. 1, a gin based liqueur, laced with herbs, and mixed with lemon, spritz, and cucumber, while great on this dreary night, has most certainly secured a spot at the top of my summer cocktail list. With our drinks, we were treated to an amuse-bouche, and although it was not much larger than a quarter, the chopped green apple, goat cheese, pecan and honey-drizzled crostini, packed huge flavor in one bite. This is one of those dishes that seems so simple that I make all sorts of promises to myself to try to recreate it at home for for friends.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-73fL9JMatKU/TzHXe7SHqbI/AAAAAAAAAaE/PQOHZjebxHY/s1600/_IGP9613-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-73fL9JMatKU/TzHXe7SHqbI/AAAAAAAAAaE/PQOHZjebxHY/s400/_IGP9613-3.jpg" width="265" /></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">While I grew up in a food loving family that valued dining out, the restaurants we patronized were of the all-you-can-eat crab leg or twin lobster variety, not French cuisine. I adore both, and by no means am I complaining about great seafood, but I keenly remember my first foie gras, at Farallon in San Francisco. Like most “firsts”, this little slice of livered heaven changed my life and palette forever. Iris’ version was seared to perfection with a salty, caramelized crust, encasing a silky, rich interior, with a roasted sweet shallot with an herbed oil. Like a child, I must have cut my piece into a dozen miniscule bites, but in this case it was to savor every last morsel. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Not one to shy away from an unusual dish, I could not help but resist one of the new winter dishes for its pure schizophrenic appeal; the veal schnitzel was topped with a farm fresh sunny side-up egg and fresh anchovies, on a bed of knöpfle tossed with oregano and capers. </span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-89zAia03g1s/Ty64w7NT7OI/AAAAAAAAAZs/FONw3SRQb24/s1600/_IGP9616-3.jpg"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"> </span></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SdBugxALhoE/TzHgyci6tZI/AAAAAAAAAaU/awDECR7SMPU/s1600/_IGP9616-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SdBugxALhoE/TzHgyci6tZI/AAAAAAAAAaU/awDECR7SMPU/s640/_IGP9616-3.jpg" width="424" /></span></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="color: windowtext; text-decoration: none;"> </span><span style="text-decoration: none;">As if that was not sensory pleasure enough, the entire dish was served over a boysenberry glaze. The briny flavor of the anchovies counter-balanced the buttery veal and the runny egg yolk for a wonderfully salty bite, that when dipped in the sweet boysenberry sauce, made your taste buds jump. The flavorful knöpfle, a Hungarian style noodle with a chewy dumpling texture, completed the dish. </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The braised American kobe short rib, was served over a roasted winter vegetable fregula, a pasta similar to an Israeli couscous. This meal was most certainly the antidote to a drizzly winter night; the rich braised texture of the beef was deeply satisfying and frankly there are not too many things in life that make me happier than a perfect baby carrot, smaller than my pinkie finger, with the miniature greens still attached. </span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3V1w4d-_DYQ/Ty64xOQC94I/AAAAAAAAAZ0/lM_niwJoghY/s1600/_IGP9622-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3V1w4d-_DYQ/Ty64xOQC94I/AAAAAAAAAZ0/lM_niwJoghY/s640/_IGP9622-3.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--a7HlSNs72I/TzHladb2S4I/AAAAAAAAAac/zXwRbxQVhMg/s1600/_IGP9623-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--a7HlSNs72I/TzHladb2S4I/AAAAAAAAAac/zXwRbxQVhMg/s320/_IGP9623-3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span">F</span><span class="Apple-style-span">arm cheddar with sea salt and honey immediately sold us on the cheese plate for dessert. Creamy and salty, the cheddar was perfect on its own and also wonderful when paired with the tomato marmalade. The Manchego coupled nicely with the rich caramelized onion marmalade and the fresh gouda was mild and clean, completely unlike the more popular aged or smoked versions. Being a cheese purist, I didn’t try the crostini that came with the dish until the end, which was a blessing, as the toasts glean what I am calling their “crack essence” from being flash fried, creating a crispy crunch with a very satisfying chew. Deep fried bread…might make me as happy as baby carrots....</span></span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8rf_HkHP7mc/Ty64xaYKA1I/AAAAAAAAAZ8/BoQCh7SeWQQ/s1600/_IGP9623-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><br />
<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/50/622483/restaurant/Midtown/Restaurant-Iris-Memphis"><img alt="Restaurant Iris on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/622483/biglink.gif" style="border: none; height: 146px; width: 200px;" /></a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-22145698397156314002011-11-07T21:29:00.001-06:002012-11-21T11:58:34.833-06:00Smoky cocktails, house cured charcuterie, and bacon bitters: Snackbar, Oxford, MS<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cuIlNbVBbto/TriS61Pvd6I/AAAAAAAAAXA/VKdR5vkHlVc/s1600/IMG_2542.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="356" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cuIlNbVBbto/TriS61Pvd6I/AAAAAAAAAXA/VKdR5vkHlVc/s640/IMG_2542.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">D</span>on't let the miles of farmland on all sides or the quaint town square fool you, Oxford, Mississippi is a little gem of a food town. Oxford takes its cuisine seriously, after all, it is the home of the <a href="http://southernfoodways.org/">Southern Foodways Alliance</a>, an organization that researches, documents and celebrates southern culture through food. Because of this, it is odd that I have not spent much time writing about the gastronomic riches in my own backyard. There are plenty of culinary experiences, from the simple BBQ at Handy Andy's to the soul food at <a href="http://ajaxdiner.net/Ajax_Diner/Welcome.html">Ajax Diner</a>, for which which much has already been penned; I cannot add anything unique. However, recently my passion for one establishment has reached a crescendo that I cannot ignore. I am in love with <a href="http://www.citygroceryonline.com/restaurant.php?snackbar">Snackbar</a>.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Panacea</td></tr>
</tbody></table>One of John Currence's four brilliant concepts, the french brasserie is wrapped in warm wood walls, hung with deer heads, creating a cozy lodge-like feel, yet the funky, hip lighting lends an urban, almost European atmosphere. No matter the season, there is a feng shui about Snackbar that beckons me. This used to be a point of contention with my partner, who only just recently came under the same spell, thanks to a magical fall cocktail called the Antigua. Smooth Don Julio anejo tequila, an aged liquor, is mixed with a house-made, slightly sweet, chipotle infused, agave syrup, a splash of soda, and finished with a caramelized slice of orange, making a drink that can only be described as "smoke-in-a-glass". Drinking the Antigua, you cannot help but think of falling leaves, Fair Isle wool sweaters, and wood burning fires. Another favorite off the seasonal cocktail menu is the Panacea. Made up of Bernheim Original Kentucky Wheat Bourbon, Averna, which is a sweet and bitter Sicilian herbal liqueur, Heering Cherry Liqueur, and a Galliano Rinse, this is a great choice for those who enjoy a good Old Fashioned. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pickle Plate</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span class="Apple-style-span">The drinks alone are worth the trip to Snackbar, however the food is equally memorable. Locals extol their truffle parmesan frites, an addictive, exquisite french fry served aside a hangar steak or as a side dish. Regardless of how they are served, I promise you will not forgive the last one at the bottom of the parchment-lined cylinder for being the last one. Their raw bar is fresh and their charcuterie includes greats like duck leg </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: sans-serif; line-height: 19px;">pâté</span><span class="Apple-style-span"> and </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: sans-serif; line-height: 19px;">pâté</span><span class="Apple-style-span"> de foie de poulet (chicken liver, mushroom </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: sans-serif; line-height: 19px;">pâté</span><span class="Apple-style-span">). While classic dishes stay on the menu, many of their dishes are seasonal including a past favorite, the fried mac and cheese small plate. On a recent trip, I reminisced to the waitress about an inventive pickle plate about which I still fantasized, and after a quick check with the chefs, she returned to the table with a whipped-up version that will tide me over until the original returns. Prior to my original plate, I thought of pickles as cucumbers, drowned in dill or bread and butter brines, found in the grocery store aisle. I had no inkling of the complexity of spices, let alone the diversity of vegetables that can be pickled. Our mini version included a curried cauliflower, a lemony shrimp, crisp, thin haricot vert, a briny egg, crunchy okra, tangy black-eyed peas, and even cinnamon and clove spiced mango. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boudin Balls</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Off the charcuterie menu, we ordered boudin balls, a cajun pork and rice sausage, rolled and deep fried, harkening to Currence's roots in New Orleans. Although paired with a grainy mustard and greens, the perfectly crisp outside and creamy sausage and rice mixture on the inside, needed no accompaniment. Snackbar's burger has been praised in many southern magazines as a favorite, and while not out-of-the-ordinary, the compilation of local and house made accoutrements certainly make it a winner. White Oak pastures beef is topped with sister restaurant's <a href="http://citygroceryonline.com/restaurant.php?bbb">Big Bad Breakfast</a> bacon, house-made cheddar, house tomato jam, creole mustard, onions, and greens, and then sandwiched in a airy brioche bun.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qsgOyR6L84g/TriT2Xvd9EI/AAAAAAAAAXg/RMi1C2ced0w/s1600/IMG_2558.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qsgOyR6L84g/TriT2Xvd9EI/AAAAAAAAAXg/RMi1C2ced0w/s640/IMG_2558.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>The hearty and yet delicate risotto was made with healthy portions of fresh lump crab meat, sweet corn, red bell peppers, shallot, and thyme. And to further indulge the creamy factor, the pasta was finished with a lush mascarpone cheese. The redfish courtboullion, served as a special, included a perfectly cooked, flaky filet, topped with a tomato based sauce reminiscent of a sweet caponata.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CMokYqbx2Vw/TriUVVbJjgI/AAAAAAAAAXo/u-wtVYftEQk/s1600/IMG_2553.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="111" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CMokYqbx2Vw/TriUVVbJjgI/AAAAAAAAAXo/u-wtVYftEQk/s200/IMG_2553.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>On a recent return trip to satisfy an Antigua craving, Brian served us at the bar, where we tried a new fish special, the corvina. Billed as similar to a sea bass, this firm, yet mild white fish was served atop a pumpkin seed puree with roasted baby eggplants; it hit all of the rich notes of fall, yet remained light.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Redfish Courtbuillion</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The cocktails are the creative inventions of the superb bar tending staff, often egged on by owner John Currence. He once told me, jokingly, that seeing the creativity and shear volume spawned by a contest amongst the bar staff to develop the most unique bitters, he feared where it might eventually lead. Fortunately bacon bitters, a mainstay on the cocktail list, was clearly a winning result. Currence's dynamic leadership style has undoubtedly allowed Vishwesh Bhatt, Chef at Snackbar and member of the City Grocery Restaurant group for over ten years, to exercise his talent, masterfully coupling classic country french flavors with southern comfort food. <br />
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Perhaps one of the other reasons I have restrained from writing about local eateries, is that Snackbar, located a half mile north of the square, still seems like a well kept secret from the throngs of college students, football fans and tourists who patronize the well established haunts. While I hate to jeopardize the neighborhood pub aura, I can no longer keep quiet about my love affair with Snackbar.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Corvina</td></tr>
</tbody></table><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/211/1442966/restaurant/Mississippi/Snackbar-Oxford"><img alt="Snackbar on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1442966/biglogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 34px; width: 104px;" /></a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com2Oxford, MS, USA34.3664951 -89.51924839999998134.327938100000004 -89.56737889999998 34.4050521 -89.471117899999982tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-86345162700535065192011-10-29T19:53:00.000-05:002012-11-21T11:58:34.890-06:00Honky Tonks, Duck Fat, and Cheesy Chicken Pie - Nashville, TN<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">U</span>nlike most New Englanders who grew up in the late '70s, I loved country music as a child. While my friends were rocking out to Rick Springfield, I wore out Johnny Cash tapes on my cassette player and sat riveted, nightly with my parents as they watched the country music TV station. We lived frugally, my parents had a date night every Saturday, sans kids, and my Dad loved the motto "children were to be seen and not heard", so you can imagine my elation when I found out that my folks were taking me, an eight year old, to a Johnny Cash concert at the Cohasset Music Circus. This also happened to be fourth grade, my lost year. Inexplicably, most afternoons in the second half of fourth grade, I would fall sound asleep at my desk after lunch. I tried hard to avoid this embarrassing fate as I not only shared a desk with the fourth grade heart throb, Billy Lincoln, but being the bookworm that I was, I devastatingly snoozed right through reading period where Mrs. Henderson was reading us the the enthralling story of James and the Giant Peach. This went on for six months, including countless trips to the nurse and even a few school counseling sessions with my folks to determine if there was foul play at home. Near bursting with excitement on an early summer night, I dressed up to attend my first-ever concert, alone with my parents, to hear my idol, Johnny Cash. Unfortunately I only made it three songs deep before falling sound asleep in the 3rd row. I was devastated and ashamed, and although it was only a few weeks later that we learned the pharmacist had mixed up my fluoride pills with an elderly person's blood pressure medication, causing me to pass-out daily, I still carry regret that I missed most of that concert. <br />
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Perhaps this history explains the tingling excitement I get at the prospect of visiting Nashville, a mere four hours from my current residence. Recently I set out early on a Friday afternoon to meet two of my country music-loving girlfriends in the music city for a weekend of honky tonks and food. Country music blasting out of my open sun roof, I sang along loudly, and off-key, with great gusto "I am not here for a long time, I am here for a good time....", only interrupted occasionally by my need to stop and take in the back road views. Autumn in the upper south is stunning; the air is void of all humidity after a long summer's grip, and it settles into a comfortable 78 degrees for weeks on end, the fall foliage lights the undulating hillsides breaking up the vast plains of cotton, which hold their own unique beauty. Row after row of plants are covered in huge orbs of stark white cotton; it seems unreal that a textile can actually grow directly from nature in such purity. The sun nears the horizon as I roll into Nashville, fittingly in time for cocktail hour at the Capitol Grill Oak Bar located on the lower level of the historic and elegant Hermitage Hotel, where we were staying. The pub is cozy, and old-school refined, a perfect place to imbibe great wine, catch-up on gossip, and plot our upcoming adventures. Little did we know that there was a time when three women would not have been allowed, as the bar was a gentleman's club, rumored to have been accessed by wealthy politicians via a tunnel that connected the capitol to the bar's famed men's room, which in recent years has been named the <a href="http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/30476750/ns/travel-destination_travel/t/americas-best-bathroom-found-tennessee/#.TqxzZ2AW9SQ">"best bathroom in America"</a>. Strangely I can vouch for this title, as I was offered a tour when walking past to the ladies room, by a kindly older gentleman, happy to show off the glamorous art deco interior.<br />
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Hungry and buzzing with first-night-of-vacation energy, we set off by cab to <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.taystrestaurant.com/">Tayst</a></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, a restaurant known for its fresh local food and dedication to sustainability. What began as a pursuit to find the best tasting, local food, the chefs at Tayst are now deeply entrenched in the values of the green movement. They compost, they purvey green products for the restaurant such as beeswax candles and cleaning products, all in an effort to ensure that the entire dining experience respects the earth and the bounty it has provided. Lest you fear tree-hugging, tofu laden dishes, rest assured that the menu is playful and creatively modern while steeped in the classics. In fact the only reference to tofu on the entire menu was the ravioli appetizer, consisting of paper thin slices of turnip, filled with tofu walnut ricotta, laced with sage brown butter, lemon balm and mint. If that is hippie, bring on the patchouli. </span><br />
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The foie gras was stylistically gorgeous. A thin round slice of apple was cored and filled with seared foie gras, which when eaten together provided superb juxtaposition; the crisp, sweet apple contrasted the rich, silky foie gras beautifully. The only downside was that I had to share it with my girlfriends.<br />
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Fortunately the third starter was a surprise stunner, at least for me as I have a slight aversion to the texture of spaghetti squash. As is often the case here in the south, if you take an unremarkable vegetable, mix it with eggs and fry it, it becomes something otherworldly. The hush puppie-sized spaghetti squash fritters were crisp on the outside, soft on the inside and completely worthy of the highly coveted "best app" title.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KgPCO5xjXZI/Tqx-Ki94xKI/AAAAAAAAAWo/kvNSha72HM8/s1600/IMG_2460fritters.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KgPCO5xjXZI/Tqx-Ki94xKI/AAAAAAAAAWo/kvNSha72HM8/s400/IMG_2460fritters.jpg" width="400" /></a>Next the watermelon salad was colorful, served with fried lardon and caramelized onions. Creamy and bursting with flavor, the squash soup was clearly not made from pallid grocery store squash.<br />
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The savory goat cheesecake was beautifully displayed next to a summer squash salad and a heap of sweet grilled cherry tomatoes. When eaten together, the cheesecake offered a sinfully rich depth to the bright salads.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d_57NLlpM48/TqYYJs1wAJI/AAAAAAAAAV8/TbzwJzHVnHQ/s1600/IMG_2463.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d_57NLlpM48/TqYYJs1wAJI/AAAAAAAAAV8/TbzwJzHVnHQ/s320/IMG_2463.jpg" width="320" /></a>Our waiter oozed southern charm, delighting my L.A. girlfriends with his chivalry. He warned us that the chicken dish, complete with a chicken cheese pie, was outrageous. Being a yankee, I expected a pot-pie of some sort, but in keeping with southern tradition instead it was a flaky, fried pie, filled with a cheesy chicken concoction; this is the type of meal you can envision begging your grandmother to make with holiday leftovers. The pie was served with a succulent roasted chicken and a flavorful corn salsa.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VyHI69nohfo/TqYYDDWKkPI/AAAAAAAAAUk/AtROXS1LQs0/s1600/IMG_2477.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VyHI69nohfo/TqYYDDWKkPI/AAAAAAAAAUk/AtROXS1LQs0/s400/IMG_2477.jpg" width="400" /></a>The trout dish caught our attention as it was served atop a bolognese. The vibrant pink fish was buttery and surprisingly well paired with the tomato meat sauce, then ringed with a basil emulsion.<br />
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Lastly, the special was a rich, meaty sturgeon served over a broth piled high with wax beans, sweet turnips and arugula. The sous chef visited with us and shared his enthusiasm for the fresh sturgeon, a surprise his fish monger had delivered that day.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nSJpPd0Tesw/TqYYEeOp_9I/AAAAAAAAAU0/WFmz1OYDwhA/s1600/IMG_2475.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nSJpPd0Tesw/TqYYEeOp_9I/AAAAAAAAAU0/WFmz1OYDwhA/s400/IMG_2475.jpg" width="400" /></a>We ended our meal with the flour less chocolate cake, and candied fruit, which paired amazingly well with our zinfandel, however I think anything including the local Tennessee moonshine would have gone well with that creamy slice of heaven. Smitten by the food and the service, we reluctantly took leave of Tayst to head to Second Street and Broadway for a tourist's Nashville music experience.<br />
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<a href="http://robertswesternworld.com/">Robert's Western World</a>, an ole Nashville establishment known for its great bands, walls lined with boots for sale, and cold Pabst Blue Ribbon, seemed like the logical next step. We nabbed a table and had barely wiped the condensation off our PBRs when we were dragged out to dance by a rodeo belt wearing cowboy, complete with a hat, embroidered shirt and boots. Apparently he learned more than roping on the ranch as this guy knew his way around a dance floor, leading us through dips and spins that would make those on Dancing with the Stars envious. The crowd was diverse; it was a place where we made friends quickly. Time flew by, as it does when feeling completely ebullient, and in the wee hours of the morning, we left the neon behind for our hotel, almost hungry enough from dancing for the fried bologna sandwiches they were grilling up at the back of the bar. <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sIKyb3qLW-0/TqYXzc_TtjI/AAAAAAAAAUI/Ay39v2GEVpk/s1600/IMG_2493.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sIKyb3qLW-0/TqYXzc_TtjI/AAAAAAAAAUI/Ay39v2GEVpk/s320/IMG_2493.jpg" width="320" /></a>In the morning we hit <a href="http://www.puckettsgrocery.com/">Puckett's Grocery</a> for a southern version of eggs benedict - poached eggs over a biscuit, topped with creamy pork gravy. Now if that did did not soak up our previous night's adventures, nothing would. After lazing around the hotel we readied ourselves for afternoon snacks and a little shopping. As we walked the few blocks from the hotel to Broadway we noticed a few folks dressed up in bloodied costumes, but seeing as Nashville has a diverse blend of art and tradition, we didn't think much of it until a bit later, while comfortably seated at <a href="http://www.merchantsrestaurant.com/">Merchants</a> eating tater tots fried in duck fat, washed down with local Yazoo beer, we saw hundreds of zombies walking past the large picture windows. Apparently we were in town just in time for the annual zombie walk.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TmElU5N3m3c/TqYXzFMfSbI/AAAAAAAAATs/XyujNnCV6EI/s1600/IMG_2510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TmElU5N3m3c/TqYXzFMfSbI/AAAAAAAAATs/XyujNnCV6EI/s400/IMG_2510.jpg" width="400" /></a>We spent time in Germantown, Hillsboro Village and Music Row and barely scratched the surface of what Nashville has to offer; there is much more to the city than the country scene. Perhaps because of our deep love of music or because I am still making up for my lost Johnny Cash concert, we thoroughly enjoyed the tourist tour of the city. I am reminded of Jason Alean's hit <i>Crazy Town, </i>"Its a crazy town full of neon dreams, everybody plays, everybody sings, Hollywood with a touch of twang..." We did not once hear even a mediocre band; the talent was staggering, the musicians were accessible, and southern culture and chivalry reign strong. <br />
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From the old world elegance of the Hermitage to the green movement at Tayst, and of course the bars of downtown, where the music starts at ten in the morning and for all I know it doesn't stop, I found one of those rare places where my night actually exceeded my preconceived expectations. Since returning to Oxford, I have found an excuse to wear my boots every day and continue to crank up the country music, channeling a little Nashville spirit into my daily life. <br />
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As for my lost fourth grade year, we never sued the pharmacy, but, I now have a built-in excuse for anything I cannot recall learning - algebra...must have missed that in the 4th grade. <br />
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<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/47/511830/restaurant/Belmont-Vanderbilt/Tayst-Nashville"><img alt="Tayst on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/511830/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; width: 104px;" /></a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-70628573489543044802011-08-29T21:51:00.002-05:002012-11-21T11:58:34.880-06:00Parlor Market, Jackson, MS<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rfzay5Pe6sw/TlrcdzDUC_I/AAAAAAAAASY/QMiLZixU5HI/s1600/_IGP8867.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rfzay5Pe6sw/TlrcdzDUC_I/AAAAAAAAASY/QMiLZixU5HI/s400/_IGP8867.jpg" width="262" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">N</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span">ew Orleans in a glass...does it not sound like the perfect way to begin one's weekend? In my case, the night was Friday, the place was Parlor Market in Jackson, Mississippi and the drink was a Vieux Carr</span><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica;">é</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span">. Rye whiskey, cognac, sweet vermouth, benedictine, and bitters swirled in a glass, reminiscent of the classic, New Orleans sazerac, coupled with a dark, candle-lit atmosphere, a deserted downtown city, an early weekend electricity in the air, and I felt excitedly like a character in a Raymond Chandler novel. Fortunately, no shots were fired, or damsels found in distress, just a romantic meal to awaken the senses.</span></div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rfzay5Pe6sw/TlrcdzDUC_I/AAAAAAAAASY/QMiLZixU5HI/s1600/_IGP8867.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: blue; font-size: x-large;"><br />
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On our way to the coast from Oxford, we decide to break-up our trip in Jackson, and were thrilled to learn that our friends were playing downtown at <a href="http://www.underground119.com/">119 Underground</a>. This cozy basement blues club and restaurant, is keeping Mississippi blues alive and adding entertainment to an otherwise sleepy urban downtown. After popping in for a quick visit, which included a huge treat, a tour of the building's dreamy loft apartment and businesses, we left for a late reservation at <a href="http://parlormarket.com/">Parlor Market</a>. Jackson is one of those cities that evacuates at night for the suburbs. Fortunately, places like 119 Underground and Parlor Market are revitalizing city life in this historic district.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lT7S7KpStRE/Tlrcec4M2qI/AAAAAAAAASc/rYR-O3mKkYM/s1600/_IGP8873.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lT7S7KpStRE/Tlrcec4M2qI/AAAAAAAAASc/rYR-O3mKkYM/s400/_IGP8873.jpg" width="265" /></a>From the moment we entered Parlor Market, the service was warm and attentive. The vibe was hip and yet classic. The menu offered a number of raw bar options and appetizers. I rarely turn down an opportunity to eat foie gras and the description made it clear that tonight would be no exception. Served atop a french bread style brioche, the foie gras was served with a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kudzu">kudzu</a> jelly and a red-eye gravy, with a fried sunny-side-up quail egg. As one would expect, the foie gras was silken and rich. I often experience the purist syndrome with foie gras, in that I want to simply eat it plain to relish the buttery depth of the liver, but after trying that, I moved on to feast on the pudding-like texture of the brioche, encapsulated by the crispy french-toast exterior. When dipped in the sweet kudzu jelly, made from the fruit of the infamous locally invasive vine, and the rich coffee flavored red-eye gravy, I felt I had discovered the love child of an affair between France and Mississippi. <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ThORYwri0fk/TlrcfCNuUKI/AAAAAAAAASg/qTqrfM1jMA0/s1600/_IGP8874.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ThORYwri0fk/TlrcfCNuUKI/AAAAAAAAASg/qTqrfM1jMA0/s200/_IGP8874.jpg" width="132" /></a>In addition to the foie gras, we ordered the southern cheese plate, which included a salty blue cheese, a truffle cheese, a cinnamon and vanilla gouda and an aged, buttery cheese for which our server didn't know the name (it reminded me of a piave vecchio). Served with locally made jalepeno honey, tiger melon, small seedless muscadine grapes, blueberries, incredibly fresh roasted candied pecans, and sliced brioche, I felt like I had gone to tapas heaven.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VJDO1iqxC8Y/TlrcfqCDCiI/AAAAAAAAASk/E8I9ayB4cpM/s1600/_IGP8875.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VJDO1iqxC8Y/TlrcfqCDCiI/AAAAAAAAASk/E8I9ayB4cpM/s400/_IGP8875.jpg" width="265" /></a>For my main course, I could not resist the venison special, seared with a dry rub atop a butternut squash puree, drizzled with a truffle gravy, alongside a mushroom and foie gras bread pudding with fig preserves and a haricot vert and sun choke stir fry. Please believe me when I tell you that I could have cut the venison with a fork! The loin was flavorful and tender, almost delicate, and completely unrelated to any of the game venison I have cooked on my grill. The bread pudding should be illegal, it was moist, deep in flavor, and completely satisfying on the tongue. The bright and crispy haricot vert, juxtaposed the fullness of the meal as did the treat of the sun chokes, one of those delightful root vegetables that just never quite make it to my home table. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4TOpWBmKEc0/TlrcgICiQnI/AAAAAAAAASo/2l03ma6kUjM/s1600/_IGP8877.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4TOpWBmKEc0/TlrcgICiQnI/AAAAAAAAASo/2l03ma6kUjM/s200/_IGP8877.jpg" width="132" /></a>Mark opted for the burger and as you might expect, it was a work of art worthy of the finest european pub. In keeping with their bread of choice trend, the burger was served on buttered, toasted brioche with butter lettuce, heirloom tomato, and horseradish pecan cheddar. It was accompanied by sweet potato pomme frites in their own miniature fryer basket -- fried to perfection.<br />
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While the famed strawberry cake tempted us, the shear richness of our meal prevented us from indulging further, leaving us with a reason to return. While it is easy to patronize our local suburban venues, there is something sexy and historic about driving into the city for a night of great gastronomy and music. Put on your heels, crank the music, and head downtown for a night worthy of writing home.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y5rogs9GvYM/TlxH5Ese99I/AAAAAAAAATU/deE8r5yXEws/s1600/_IGP8881.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y5rogs9GvYM/TlxH5Ese99I/AAAAAAAAATU/deE8r5yXEws/s640/_IGP8881.jpg" width="424" /></a></div><br />
<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/176/1549440/restaurant/Parlor-Market-Jackson"><img alt="Parlor Market on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1549440/biglogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 34px; width: 104px;" /></a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2369444129727338492.post-81018746307066572222011-05-16T21:19:00.004-05:002012-11-21T11:58:34.888-06:00Eat Southern....Cabo San Lucas, the "south" of the Mexican Baja peninsula<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-26NJH0eYn_A/TdHWg4bKyFI/AAAAAAAAARA/86En0v6pdaA/s1600/pool.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="468" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-26NJH0eYn_A/TdHWg4bKyFI/AAAAAAAAARA/86En0v6pdaA/s640/pool.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Infinity Pool at Playa Grande</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">M</span>ole, margaritas, fresh shrimp, caesar salad and carbonara...admittedly that seems like a strange list of favorites from a trip to Mexico, but as Mark keeps reminding me, Cabo is barely Mexico. Sitting at the southern end of the Baja peninsula, this desert seaside town provides a nice blend of Mexican culture, with a tourist friendly ease. The restaurants all accept American currency, and yet you can still find a local Mexican woman making authentic masa tortillas in an open kitchen. My high school best friend, Kristin and I met in this resort town with the goals of relaxing poolside by day, and experiencing the culture via food and drink by night. Along the way we enjoyed the traditional cuisine and took some risks, discovering Italian with a Mexican twist. <br />
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We stayed at the Playa Grande, a beautiful resort on the beach with five pools, luxurious spa, and great service, save the checking in and out process which you would have thought was a first for them. During the day we enjoyed delicious fish tacos and ceviche, poolside. It could have been the sun and the salt air, or the adrenalin from frequently spotting whales swimming along the beach, but these simple dishes were outrageously delicious. I was reminded that very few simple ingredients: fish, lettuce, tomatoes and lime, often taste better than loading on layers of flavor. Cheese and sour cream, so often used in American Mexican food, were rarely used here.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Bvgptdn7zc0/TdHWGXupUgI/AAAAAAAAAPw/4kZpG8ioSwQ/s1600/IMG_2029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Bvgptdn7zc0/TdHWGXupUgI/AAAAAAAAAPw/4kZpG8ioSwQ/s400/IMG_2029.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Banana Wrapped Sea Bass</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Our first night we dined at Mi Casa restaurant in downtown Cabo San Lucas, which was walking distance from our resort. We entered the restaurant through a traditional storefront, were led through a hallway that opened onto a lush, colorful courtyard, stepped up almost amphitheater style, with three levels of dining. Giddy about seeing each other after 2 years and excited about the dining experiences that lay ahead, we wasted no time in diving in with La Mixta de la Huerta, a simple salad made from local organic greens, zucchini, red onions, red pepper, corn, crispy fried tortilla strips, cotija cheese and a pineapple-cilantro-jalapeno vinaigrette. The vegetables were crisp and fresh. For a second starter, we chose the Ceviche capengo campechano which included shrimp, baby octopus, fish, and scallops. Surprisingly the ceviche was sweet, tossed lightly with tomatoes, and full of the natural flavor of the fish. The ceviche was not acidic, considering this cooking technique uses acids, typically citrus, to "cook" the fish instead of heat. Alongside a margarita and Don Julio tequila both on the rocks, we found ourselves happy, relaxed, and thus easy targets for the spunky mariachi band. Note to others: you may say "no thank you" to these roving free-lance bands, when they inevitably arrive at your table, in all restaurants, otherwise they will not leave until you tip them.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1iii4S9bIUw/TdHWG1vx1wI/AAAAAAAAAQI/ao3O5B4UYpM/s1600/IMG_2033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1iii4S9bIUw/TdHWG1vx1wI/AAAAAAAAAQI/ao3O5B4UYpM/s400/IMG_2033.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">El Mole Poblano</td></tr>
</tbody></table>While the chili-spiced sea bass cooked in a banana leaf served with fresh vegetables and rice, was perfectly pleasing, the El mole poblano, stole the show. Deliciously tender, fall-off-the-bone chicken, reminiscent of southern bbq, was smothered in a complex mole sauce, boasting over 35 ingredients. This meal causes me to contradict my earlier mentioned simplicity rule, forcing me to create a new rule: if you cannot keep your ingredients simple, go extreme! The mole sauce which hinted of chocolate and chili, proved to be the best meal of the vacation. We could not resist an order of fresh masa tortillas made at an open kitchen right in the heart of the courtyard, with a serving of fresh guacamole. These masa tortillas, made by an adorable local woman, have ruined store bought flour tortillas for me, for life. The corn flavor, combined with a slightly mealy texture, juxtaposed the fresh creamy guacamole that teased me, knowing I would not be able to replicate them back home. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZdeEv6E9XHY/TdHWGreXBSI/AAAAAAAAAP4/z0FTE5ZP7Sw/s1600/IMG_2031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZdeEv6E9XHY/TdHWGreXBSI/AAAAAAAAAP4/z0FTE5ZP7Sw/s400/IMG_2031.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Masa Tortillas</td></tr>
</tbody></table>For dessert we could not pass up the Tarte de peras en damiana, a pear tart with local goat cheese and liquor, which did not disappoint. The crust was flaky, the cheese was creamy, and it was not overly sweetened, allowing all the flavors to present themselves. <br />
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Veering away from the traditional, we tried Doc wine bar and Italian restaurant, which proved to be another favorite. Situated next door to Mi Casa, it is a small cozy restaurant, reminiscent of Italy, with an open kitchen and extensive wine menu. The chefs hail from Italy, so the dishes are based on classics, but there is certainly a Mexican influence on the flavors. We both adored our main courses. Their signature dish called Doc, consisted of guanciale (spaghetti), cream, thyme, <span style="font-family: TrebuchetMS;">habanera</span><span style="font-family: TrebuchetMS; font-size: 16pt;"> </span>chile and sweet corn. The guanciale was creamy and luscious, yet unlike a typical Italian cream-type dish, it was fiery, flavored by the Mexican chiles. The second dish was equally spicy, the penne arrabiatta included tomato, garlic, parsley and a lot of hot red chili pepper. The red sauce was again redolent of the Italian dishes with which we grew up in the northeast, except for the intense kick of heat. Both Kristin and I enjoy spicy food, therefore these dishes appealed to our nature, but they are not for the faint of tongue. In fact, we garnered major points with the wait staff and owner when they saw we could not only handle the heat, but enjoy it. <br />
<div style="text-align: right;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VsNQtacSZW8/TdHWb_whryI/AAAAAAAAAQg/qJU5OOXPl7U/s1600/IMG_2074.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VsNQtacSZW8/TdHWb_whryI/AAAAAAAAAQg/qJU5OOXPl7U/s200/IMG_2074.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
<div style="text-align: right;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PNmzBlJRzk4/TdHWbmRK5vI/AAAAAAAAAQY/WfZSWIrWnTA/s1600/IMG_2073.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PNmzBlJRzk4/TdHWbmRK5vI/AAAAAAAAAQY/WfZSWIrWnTA/s200/IMG_2073.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>On Monday night we discovered our planned restaurant was closed so we ventured to the more touristy marina area. Here we discovered a great little gem of a restaurant, Los Deseos, that while it served great food, to me will be remembered for the service. It was here that we discovered a brilliant perk, shared by many of the outdoor restaurants - ponchos on the back of your chair. Inevitably the 90 degree heat of the day, drops after dark, in true desert fashion. Seeing me shivering in my strappy sundress, our waiter arrived to drape a poncho over me, feeling very romantically, international. Another silly pleasure was a personal purse stand upon arrival at your table. This accoutrement was small, yet completely memorable.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O5fqTu470pc/TdHWHHKlHPI/AAAAAAAAAQQ/QCvSfJZczps/s1600/IMG_2065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O5fqTu470pc/TdHWHHKlHPI/AAAAAAAAAQQ/QCvSfJZczps/s400/IMG_2065.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kristin showing off the poncho and purse stand</td></tr>
</tbody></table>On our final night we ventured over to Medano beach, a short cab ride from our resort, boasting a beautiful, swimmable beach (the beach at the resort is off limits for swimming due to dangerous riptides) and a popular, casual, palapa (grass hut) restaurant, cheekily called "The Office". The outdoor tables sit directly in the sand almost down to the water's edge, making for a perfect evening cocktail destination. Along with our now standard margaritas, we dined on grilled shrimp scampi. These were served fresh off the grill, hinting of smoke and smothered in a garlic, butter sauce. The meat was sweet and tender; light fare that made a delicious start to the night. <br />
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From The Office, we walked across the street to an upscale sister establishment called Edith's. Edith's may be the most romantically set restaurant, I have ever enjoyed. Set in a verdant courtyard, lit with small white lights and candles, one cannot help but be intoxicated by the exotic vibe. We began with a caesar salad made tableside. To my delight, the entertaining chef broke open a soft boiled egg, and drizzled the runny yoke into the dressing, which may be the secret ingredient as this salad proved to be incredibly creamy and rich, exceeding all previous caesar salad experiences.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vN2pMeUfb8Q/TdHWcF5EyuI/AAAAAAAAAQw/JLg505W6T_o/s1600/IMG_2083.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vN2pMeUfb8Q/TdHWcF5EyuI/AAAAAAAAAQw/JLg505W6T_o/s400/IMG_2083.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shrimp Scampi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Our main course was a surf and turf for two with lobster, lamb and beef filet wrapped in bacon. The local lobster was tender and rich. The lamb chops were cooked rare, seasoned well, and had a perfect balance of lamb flavor without being too gamey. These chops were so good, I did not think twice about gnawing on the bones, enjoying every last ounce. The filet was wonderful, and felt a bit more natural and flavorful than your typical pristine American filet.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jfhw3ns-rBo/TdHWcJs7itI/AAAAAAAAAQ4/vgQMPKxKiGk/s1600/IMG_2094.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jfhw3ns-rBo/TdHWcJs7itI/AAAAAAAAAQ4/vgQMPKxKiGk/s400/IMG_2094.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Surf and Turf</td></tr>
</tbody></table>After five days of a vacation routine consisting of big decisions like whether to hang on our room balcony with a view of the marina, or go to the the infinity pool at the Ridge, with a swim up bar, or relax at the ocean view pool, or to get an hour and a half massage on the beach, it was hard to leave my close friend Kristin and all of this luxury behind. We parted ways, safe in knowing we had ideas for our next trip, and vowing to attempt our own version of a mole sauce back home, some rainy day, when 35 ingredients doesn't sound daunting. My money is on Kristin.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1mO2qaR04RU/TdHWbz9FE3I/AAAAAAAAAQo/wEEwlRhL5g4/s1600/IMG_2078.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1mO2qaR04RU/TdHWbz9FE3I/AAAAAAAAAQo/wEEwlRhL5g4/s640/IMG_2078.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the Marina from our balcony</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13894169593017506117noreply@blogger.com1